Le Gabriel - La Réserve Paris Hotel and Spa

75008 PARIS

18/20
Prestige Restaurant

5 PHOTOS

Chef Jérôme Banctel

Cooking French | Gastronomic | Signature cuisine | Traditional

Services Disabled access | Valet parking

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

98€ à 338€

Gault&Millau's review

18/20

Prestige Restaurant No, Jérôme Banctel isn't wise, he's thoughtful. His mastery allows him to do just about anything, including occasionally stepping into the realm of the 5-toques. What's more, he also seems to be the one who, sometimes, because of the Reserve, because of the palace, because of the Elysian proximity of the very chic heart of Paris, lets the engine brake slow down passions. And yet, there's everything here to celebrate life: the cheerful yet stylish welcome, the fine materials and thick carpeting, the general tone of service, fluid, discreet, low-key. This is useful for great dishes that speak for themselves: artichoke marinated in lime, then confit and lacquered in sakura barigoule vinegar with artichoke petals, Breton lobster cooked in seawater then in Japanese white oak wood, a velvety pink verbena almond juice like an American, a little spicy, sweet and salty, a very well thought-out, balanced dish, a delightful link between Brittany and Japan. We catch our breath with the mackerel, first cooked violently on pebbles, then basted with white wine in front of the customer for a steamed finish between two cedar leaves (hinting that vinegar acidity is one of the chef's pet hobbies), before the cuttlefish tagliatelle with Kaviari osciètre and champagne jus, and the excellent pigeon from Yvelines, roasted fillet on turnip confit skin with Apicius spice sauce. Exotic desserts: mango marinated in lime (again!) for 12 hours, oven-roasted, lacquered with Madagascar vanilla vinegar, roasted mango and chili purée, raw green mango in tagliatelle, peanut soya milk in a beautiful summer ensemble, resolutely renouncing the fruits of the season from our orchards. In the cellar, good and very good from all regions, not extravagant either in volume or price.