La Scène

75008 PARIS
17/20
 Prestige Restaurant
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© Alain Goussard
11 PHOTOS
Chef
Stéphanie Le Quellec
Cooking
French | Gastronomic | Healthy cooking | Signature cuisine
Style
Elegant | Romantic | With family
Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)
145 € to 355 €

Gault&Millau's review

17/20
Prestige Restaurant To keep the flow of customers under control, you may be asked to take a seat at the first floor counter as soon as you arrive. A short stop to savor the first bites, vivid and concise, executed in front of you. Then it's downstairs to the chic, warm and lively dining room, where the open kitchens allow for perfect osmosis with the service. Service, moreover, is effortless, cheerful and omnipresent, without intrusion. A lunch or dinner at Stéphanie Le Quellec's is a guarantee of never being bored. There's no purring here. All the dishes are vibrant, even those with seemingly "conventional" compositions, such as the inevitable summer variation on tomatoes. Fleshy and juicy, they are served cooked and raw, and "sprinkled" with a tomato water infused with seaweed. Naturally, it's super-fresh and light. As an accompaniment, a small seaweed brioche that we invite you to dip in the spirit of a pan bagnat. Another summer ritual: ratatouille. Well-preserved and fragrant, it's nicely covered with an eggplant skin, onto which frozen ratatouille juice is grated using a Japanese grinder. Beyond the mise en scène, it's also very good taste. Still on the subject of starters, it seems to us that the addictive French toast soaked in shellfish broth and topped with caviar hardly allows the very delicate cockles to really express themselves. No reservations, however, for the remarkably textured lobster brushed with argan oil and paired with a few deliberately bitter salad leaves. Bold and successful. The calf sweetbread, more classic, stands out for its perfect cooking and a saucier accompaniment of unimpeachable vigor and balance. Last but not least, we salute Pierre Chirac, the pastry chef. The finale is high-flying, with a chocolatey dessert that enhances the whole of a cabosse. Olive oil and juniper also contribute to this exemplary creation, served with a small glass of a skilfully crafted cocktail. As for the wines, there's a well-considered selection, including some lesser-known appellations (Clos Saint-Fiacre in the Orléanais region, for example). Of course, exceptional wines have their place, but there are also many more affordable wines, such as this Chinon vieilles vignes from Philippe Alliet, this Burgundy Roncevie from Domaine Arlaud and this Arbois from Domaine Fumey-Chatelin. An erudite and lively sommelier.
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Address 32 Avenue Matignon
75008 Paris
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People
  • Stéphanie Le Quellec
    Stéphanie Le Quellec Chef
    Stéphanie Le Quellec Stéphanie Le Quellec Chef
  • Pierre Chirac
    Pierre Chirac Pastry Chef
    Pierre Chirac Pierre Chirac Pastry Chef
  • Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4
    Ahmad Houmani Chef de service
    Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4 Ahmad Houmani Chef de service
  • Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4
    Matthias Meynard Head sommelier
    Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4 Matthias Meynard Head sommelier