Jean-François Piège, le Grand Restaurant

75008 PARIS

19/20
Exceptional Restaurant

BOOK

Chef Jean-François Piège

Cooking French | Gastronomic | specialty

Services For people with disabilities

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

166€ à 366€

Gault&Millau's review

19/20

Exceptional Restaurant The France label belongs to no one, because it belongs to everyone. It transcends divisions, and honors those who know how to wear it and be proud of it. Jean-François Piège's great culture is well known, and he hardly needs to show off his national medals to be worthy of speaking terroir. His "Tour de France" menus pay tribute to producers as much as to the enormous inventiveness that transforms them. His Grand Restaurant is both a wink and a grateful ode to the culinary genius of France. He wears it well, and with pride: his 5 toques don't come from nowhere. However academic his training, however transversal his background, he doesn't make anyone's dishes. He has fun with "le meilleur de la grenouille", where of course there's no frog, only parsley butter; he goes on to butter radish, and then, when the noose tightens, when it's time to climb the passes, he pulls out the polka-dot jersey to rise above the fray: his sole and chard with tuna salt and emulsified buckwheat butter is a great dish, as is the superb Périgord veal, cockles and mussels with eel nasturtium leaf extract. There's no mistaking it: this science of cooking, controlled fermentations and limpid marriage of textural variations is the work of a great chef, and the room, with its light so subdued that everyone opens the lamp on their smartphone to read the menu, is implicitly grateful. Excellent desserts, such as the zéphyrien blanc-manger with Tahitian vanilla or the ribambelle jardinière mirabelle, tagetes, parsnips, watercress, rhubarb, verbena, strawberry... Remarkable service, completely in sync, with a sense of well-being and fluidity, a cellar that's truly astounding, one of the finest collections in France with 3,000 references and 70,000 bottles, with its staggering verticals of great and lesser estates alike, a formidable playground for the excellent Baptiste Cavagna.