L'Écrin - Hôtel de Crillon

75008 PARIS

17/20
Prestige Restaurant

12 PHOTOS

Chef Boris Campanella

Cooking French | Gastronomic | specialty

Services For people with disabilities | Valet parking

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

215€ à 795€

Gault&Millau's review

17/20

Prestige Restaurant The four toques have been confirmed, and we're delighted, for the chef, Boris Campanella, for this house that has seen such great hours and deserves to return to the forefront, and for this concept that's not easy to defend to interest the average customer and not just the label drinker. The principle: you choose your wine(s), and the chef and his brigade, assisted by the sommelier, adapt the meal to suit. It's risky, a bit of a gimmick, not necessarily fun, with a presumed element of improvisation... You can see the counter-arguments coming forward, swept aside by the enthusiasm of an entire team who believe in it, who give it their all, with gusto and generosity. The appetizers are fair and simple (tomato, zucchini, chickpea...), seasonal produce, taste, truth... We begin the journey with oyster mushroom from Yvelines, a well-balanced peppery, earthy sweetness, before a welcome variation of cauliflower, roasted with green curry, in semolina, in emulsion, a comforting and interesting ensemble that works well with Dagueneau's En Chailloux. The yellowtail cress osciètre is a beautiful dish, the fish in a very sensual texture, the cress in a soft purée, a marine emulsion, while the lobster civet with red fruits adds the indispensable prestige note for Crillon's clientele, while being surrounded by every consideration: The wagyu, for example, adds a touch of gilding, but it's a little overcooked, with an olive that's a little too present on the tomato, even if the intention to please is laudable. The sweetness slows down with the well-thought-out raspberry celery combination and the skilfully crafted chocolate dessert, with its fine granita mucilage, chocolate tube and caramel, for a gourmet and comforting conclusion. The cellar is obviously a treasure trove, where everyone can find something to their liking, and the excellent Xavier Thuizat, unless he's in Japan like last time, always intervenes with his teams to good effect.