Gault&Millau

The Place
News
Restaurants
Wines
Champagnes
Spirits
Wine Estate
Hotels
Artisans
Recipies
People
Utensils
E-Shop
Gourmet itineraries
Tomorrow's chefs
Partners
Newsletters
FAQ

Contact

37-39 rue Boissière
75016 Paris
France

Phone : 01 41 40 99 80

GaultMillau © 2025 All rights reserved

Bulle d'Osier - Clos Vauban

52200 LANGRES
15/20
 Remarkable Restaurant
SHARE
BOOK
© Matteo Carassale
© Matteo Carassale
© Matteo Carassale
5 PHOTOS
Chef Valentin Loison
Cooking French | Gastronomic
Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)
140 € to 180 €
Disable your adblocker
Gault&Millau's review
15/20
Remarkable Restaurant This table, which seems to have come out of nowhere and owes everything to Laurent Petit's desire to recreate gastronomy in his native region, can be, for the young couple who run it, as much a mirror in the sky as a springboard. The four-toque chef, who handed over his Clos des Sens to his teams in 2023, has in fact created, at the entrance to the historic town, and from a beautiful old house, a superb place for which he has entrusted the keys to two young people from his region, Valentin Loison, a chef of Korean and Jura origin, and his partner Anaïs Bercegeay, from Saint-Nazaire, whom he met at Mauro Colagreco's Mirazur. So, there's a lot of work to be done, a young, determined team, and a tool to be put to good use. The slightly unavoidable fashionable tics, the locavorist discourse, the manners and mannerisms, the horrifying imposed hidden menu, make us think of yet another recitation for country bumpkins (Haute-Marne is so much more exotic than Bali!). But we have to bow our heads, because there's talent here, lots of talent. Anaïs is a very good director, who knows her score and finds the right arguments with sincerity. Then, the plates speak for themselves: if the appetizers, served one by one like relics, are a little anodyne, after the artichoke herb and flower starter very Clos des Sens, and the shallot soup too marked by the polypode, here are the crayfish à cru verveine zucchini en corolle which have taste, freshness and allure, with a well-worked xo sauce and the perfume of agastache, the excellent pike-perch in ikejimé sudachi bergamot celery with a gourmet vinaigrette like a sauce to be eaten, the highlight being the duck, a fine work in three plates, the skewered heart, the shredded thigh, the fillet very well cooked, condimented with yuzu kosho, duck juice angelica from the garden. It's the chef who makes the pastries: his "chef's desserts" are nonetheless well executed and do not detract from the overall picture, with fig tartlet and cream, fig leaf granita or Vosges blueberries or "brimbelles" with goat's cheese ice cream. The cellar is still being developed, but is already quite interesting, commented on with confidence by the hostess. Let's take a gamble on youth and immediately award the three toques to this united, determined and talented young couple, who will undoubtedly make their own mark on this promising ensemble.
READ MORE ...
READ LESS ...
MAP
Address Place du Colonel Grouchy
52200 Langres
NAVIGATE TO
Opening
Opened today
Monday Lunch Dinner
Tuesday Lunch Dinner
Wednesday Lunch Dinner
Thursday Lunch Dinner
Friday Lunch Dinner
Saturday Lunch Dinner
Sunday Lunch Dinner
People
Valentin Loison
Valentin Loison Chef
Valentin Loison Valentin Loison Chef
Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4
Anaïs Bercegeay Head sommelier
Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4 Anaïs Bercegeay Head sommelier
Disable your adblocker

Discover this restaurant's hotel

Clos Vauban
Exceptional Hotel
Clos Vauban
Address 52200 LANGRES
Services On-site catering, Private Parking, Reception room
Budget 190 €
Discover
Open
Clos Vauban
Exceptional Hotel
Clos Vauban
Address 52200 LANGRES
Services On-site catering, Private Parking, Reception room
Budget 190 €
Restaurant

Nearby restaurants

Open
Château de Courban
14.5
/ 20
Chef's Restaurant
Château de Courban
Address 21520 COURBAN
Chef Maxime Lesobre
Cooking Healthy cooking | Signature cuisine
Budget 85 € to 150 €
Open
Restaurant Natali
14
/ 20
Chef's Restaurant
Restaurant Natali
Address 52330 COLOMBEY-LES-DEUX-ÉGLISES
Chef Jean-baptiste Natali
Cooking French | Traditional
Budget 54 € to 160 €
Open
Auberge de la Charme
16.5
/ 20
Remarkable Restaurant
Auberge de la Charme
Address 21370 PRENOIS
Chef Nicolas Isnard
Cooking Cuisine d'auteur | French
Budget 65 € to 130 €
Open
L'Aspérule
15
/ 20
Remarkable Restaurant
L'Aspérule
Address 21000 DIJON
Chef Keigo Kimura
Cooking Cuisine d'auteur | French
Budget 45 € to 120 €
Open
L'Un des Sens
13
/ 20
Chef's Restaurant
L'Un des Sens
Address 21000 DIJON
Chef Sébastien Mortet
Cooking French | Traditional
Budget 30 € to 89 €
Open
Cibo
15
/ 20
Remarkable Restaurant
Cibo
Address 21000 DIJON
Chef Angelo Ferrigno
Cooking Cuisine d'auteur | French
Budget 79 € to 139 €
Disable your adblocker

Nearby hotels

Open
Clos Vauban
Exceptional Hotel
Clos Vauban
Address 52200 LANGRES
Services On-site catering, Private Parking, Reception room
Budget 190 €
Restaurant
Open
Domaine de Primard
Exceptional Hotel
Domaine de Primard
Address 28260 GUAINVILLE
Services Disabled access, On-site catering, Private Parking, Swimming pool
Budget 255 €
Open
Château de Courban & Spa Nuxe
Prestige Hotel
Château de Courban & Spa Nuxe
Address 21520 COURBAN
Services Charm, Meeting rooms, Minibar, On-site catering, Pets allowed, Restaurant selected by G&M
Budget 199 €
Restaurant
Open
Hôtel Hana
Exceptional Hotel
Hôtel Hana
Address 75002 PARIS
Services On-site catering, Private Parking, Spa, Swimming pool
Budget 390 €
Open
Aloft Dijon
Prestige Hotel
Aloft Dijon
Address 21000 DIJON
Services Fitness room, Pets allowed, Public parking lot, Swimming pool
Budget 156 €
Open
Vertigo Hotel & Spa
Prestige Hotel
Vertigo Hotel & Spa
Address 21000 DIJON
Services Disabled access, Meeting rooms, Private Parking, Room service, Spa
Budget 124 €
PARTNERS
See More
Partners Find the complete list of partners who trust Gault & Millau All our partners
PARTNERS
See More
Partners Find the complete list of partners who trust Gault & Millau All our partners
Become Partners
Learn more