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37-39 rue Boissière
75016 Paris
France

Phone : 01 41 40 99 80

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Bulle d'Osier - Clos Vauban

52200 LANGRES
15/20
 Remarkable Restaurant
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© Matteo Carassale
© Matteo Carassale
© Matteo Carassale
5 PHOTOS
Chef Valentin Loison
Cooking French | Gastronomic
Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)
140 € to 180 €
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Gault&Millau's review
15/20
Remarkable Restaurant This table, which seems to have come out of nowhere and owes everything to Laurent Petit's desire to recreate gastronomy in his native region, can be, for the young couple who run it, as much a mirror in the sky as a springboard. The four-toque chef, who handed over his Clos des Sens to his teams in 2023, has in fact created, at the entrance to the historic town, and from a beautiful old house, a superb place for which he has entrusted the keys to two young people from his region, Valentin Loison, a chef of Korean and Jura origin, and his partner Anaïs Bercegeay, from Saint-Nazaire, whom he met at Mauro Colagreco's Mirazur. So, there's a lot of work to be done, a young, determined team, and a tool to be put to good use. The slightly unavoidable fashionable tics, the locavorist discourse, the manners and mannerisms, the horrifying hidden menu imposed, make us think of yet another recitation for country bumpkins (Haute-Marne is so much more exotic than Bali!). But we have to bow our heads, because there's talent here, lots of talent. Anaïs is a very good director, who knows her score and finds the right arguments with sincerity. Then, the plates speak for themselves: if the appetizers, served one by one like relics, are a little anodyne, after the artichoke herb and flower starter very Clos des Sens, and the shallot soup too marked by the polypode, here are the crayfish à cru verveine zucchini en corolle which have taste, freshness and allure, with a well-worked xo sauce and the perfume of agastache, the excellent pike-perch in ikejimé sudachi bergamot celery with a gourmet vinaigrette like a sauce to be eaten, the highlight being the duck, a fine work in three plates, the skewered heart, the shredded thigh, the fillet very well cooked, condimented with yuzu kosho, duck juice angelica from the garden. It's the chef who does the pastry: his "chef's desserts" are nonetheless very well done, and don't detract from the overall picture: fig tartlet and cream, fig leaf granita, or Vosges blueberries or "brimbelles" with goat's cheese ice cream. The cellar is under development, but already quite interesting, commented on with confidence by the hostess. Let's take a gamble on youth and immediately award the three toques to this united, determined and talented young couple, who will undoubtedly make their own mark on this promising ensemble.
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Address Place du Colonel Grouchy
52200 Langres
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Valentin Loison Chef
Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4 Valentin Loison Chef
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Anaïs Bercegeay Head sommelier
Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4 Anaïs Bercegeay Head sommelier
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Clos Vauban
Exceptional Hotel
Clos Vauban
Address 52200 LANGRES
Services On-site catering, Private Parking, Reception room
Budget 190 €
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Services On-site catering, Private Parking, Reception room
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