Arborescence

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

76 Rue de la Gare, 59170 Croix, France

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

BOOK

8 PHOTOS

Chef: Félix Robert
Cooking: French | Fusion | Gastronomic | Healthy cooking | Local | Signature cuisine
Style: Elegant | Romantic

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

115 to 180

Gault&Millau's review 2026

In this rather chic suburb of Lille, where industry has given way to art in this tastefully renovated and furnished building, time stands still with grace. There’s such a vibrant atmosphere here, with so much positive energy and dedication, that there’s no doubting the sincerity of Nidta and Félix Robert’s vision and commitment. The dishes, so beautifully presented in each photo, bring poetry and insight into the very concept behind the chef’s cuisine—he favors bold, expressive flavors—all set against a soft, zen-like backdrop, with well-spaced tables and a free-spirited atmosphere. One can’t help but smile at this meticulously crafted presentation, which at times verges on that of an art gallery or exhibition. But starting with the welcome haiku, everything flows harmoniously: the appetizers, followed by the langoustine mayonnaise as a starter, the “asparagus hut,” coconut milk mousse, tom yam-style chili oil, mushroom sabayon, elderflower vinaigrette, the whole oyster with herbs, served as tempura in its shell, and an herb galette—creating a marine garden; the chef demonstrates skill and ingenuity in bringing out the best in his ingredients. He does justice to the red mullet by serving it whole—as its nickname, “sea snipe,” suggests—with a robust sauce, paired with morel ravioli, a bold “tiger” sauce, and quail, which is excellent—the most impressive dish in this sequence, served flat, with a small glass of rich, velvety fat as a condiment to sip. Sometimes, there’s a slight risk of confusion with these sophisticated dishes, but that’s the very essence of a daring culinary approach—that of a chef who wants to push the boundaries as far as possible in what has become an art form, once taught at Gauthier and Troisgros. A good dessert featuring strawberries, pink peppercorns, hibiscus, and prune kernels; the atmosphere is quite solemn and well suited to the occasion, with a discerning wine cellar featuring established classics and rising stars.