A chef, a champagne house

Because they both symbolize the same festive moments, champagne and gastronomy have a long shared history. For champagne wines, however, accompanying fine dining is a more recent trend, one that only a few pioneers could have imagined. These pioneers were often leading figures in the region. In the 1950s, for example, Bernard de Nonancourt built part of the Laurent-Perrier success story by setting himself apart from the major brands of the day. His idea: to take champagne out of the dessert cliché, thanks to the chefs he used to rub shoulders with in the famous Club des Cent.

Taittinger, an emblematic figure

For Pierre Taittinger, too, the table was more than just a mouthful. The founder of the Champagne house in Reims, an industrialist and politician, made it his " working office ", in the words of his great-granddaughter Vitalie, now President of Champagne Taittinger: " Gastronomy was always a non-negotiable part of his life, the scene of all the great moments. It's been in the family for generations! "The man who witnessed the emergence of nouvelle cuisine gave his name, in 1967, to a coveted international culinary prize.

Close ties with chefs

These connections between great chefs and great houses are often born of personal relationships. Mathieu Roland-Billecart, the seventh generation to head Billecart-Salmon, proudly recalls these long-standing friendships: " As with the Pic family for fifty years and Anne-Sophie's grandfather, we owe a great deal to the chefs who have pushed our house forward. We respect this heritage and have the humility to know who helped us become the Billecart-Salmon of today. "Patrons such as Mauro Colagreco (Mirazur, Menton) and Frédéric Anton (Le Pré Catelan, Paris) have been associated with the recent launches of prestige cuvées, while the champagne-gastronomy duo has become a widespread trademark. In terms of the history of Champagne, pairing is a recent phenomenon," continues Mathieu Roland-Billecart. We have four different taste profiles: traditional assemblage, rosé, blanc de blancs and sous-bois. It's very easy to find pairings and build a whole meal around them. "As demonstrated by chef Arnaud Lallement (L'Assiette Champenoise, in Triqueux, near Reims), all dishes can be paired with champagne: We don't ask ourselves the same question about wine, which we pair naturally," adds Vitalie Taittinger. Champagne is a wine in its own right, as well as being a symbol. It's an enhanced wine! Bubbles also give food a different relief, a singular texture. "

Laurent-Perrier and Christian Le Squer

Since the 1950s, Laurent-Perrier has been a pioneer in its relationship with gastronomy. Today, the champagnes of this independent, family-owned brand accompany innovative events such as Taste of Paris, of which it has been a partner since its inception in 2014. In Paris, this festival of chefs offers the best of the French culinary scene over four days to 25,000 visitors. Each menu is paired with the brand's cuvées. After the Olympic Games, Taste of Paris will return to the Grand Palais in 2025. The aim is always to bring together established chefs and up-and-coming talent, a formula that suits Laurent-Perrier's DNA. The company is close to a wide range of chefs, from Christian Le Squer (Four Seasons George V, Paris, 5 Gault&Millau toques) to Pierre Sang Boyer (several Paris restaurants), who has won Laurent-Perrier over with his eclectic mix of gastronomy and street food.

Krug and Pierre Chomet

For several years now, Krug's "Single Ingredient" program has been making its mark on the gastronomic landscape. The idea: to build a bridge between cuisine and the philosophy of a "Grande Cuvée" or the brand's rosé, making each vineyard a unique ingredient in the blend. This year, the theme was lemon. For three days, 12 chefs from Krug embassies around the world were invited on a gastronomic voyage to Brazil, to study the citrus fruit in all its forms, and to deliver a recipe around this theme. On the French side, Cristina and Pierre Chomet were chosen to imagine an original dish. For the occasion, they revisited a Thai recipe, tom kha kai coconut milk soup, infused with combava leaves, seafood, papaya and... lime. A dish they paired with a Krug rosé "27th edition" for a subtle harmony of sweetness and vitality.

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Taittinger and Jan Smink

In 1967, Claude Taittinger created an international competition in homage to his father Pierre, demonstrating the extent to which cuisine was already an integral part of the Reims house. The "Taittinger", as the competition came to be known, has always had a reputation for being demanding, technical and revealing of young chefs judged by world-renowned peers. The list of prizewinners includes Joël Robuchon, Michel Roth, Régis Marcon and others.competition, often seen as an " Everest of gastronomy ", has been tightened around the selection of one candidate per country and a grand final. Now that technical excellence has been achieved, the competition is a greater celebration of creative, inventive cuisine that appeals to the widest possible audience. Japan's Ryo Horiuchi and the Netherlands' Jan Smink are the latest winners of the Taittinger prize, which today brings together a community of over 50 chefs around the house, like another big family.

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Vranken-Pommery and Philippe Moret

The idea is simple, and entirely contained in the name of the establishment to be opened by Vranken-Pommery in Reims in 2021: Le Réfectoire proposes to "rediscover the path of our childhood and present to diners the French culinary conservatory with a non-exhaustive inventory of itsiconic dishes". The menu ranges from mayo eggs ("Brut Apanage" as a pairing suggestion) to profiteroles ("Royal Blue Sky") and veal blanquette ("Louise 2004"). The menu evolves with the seasons, and in summer is refreshed by a heart of salmon with pepper salad or a fillet of sea bass tian provençal. At the helm of this fine tribute to French cuisine is chef Philippe Moret, who has worked in some of Paris's finest brasseries. Open Thursday to Monday, Le Réfectoire is adorned with contemporary creations, such as this sound sculpture by Jean-Michel Othoniel, an artist whom the estate has long supported.

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Ruinart and Arnaud Donckele

One of the most talented and awarded chefs of the last ten years, and Gault&Millau Chef of the Year in 2020, meets Ruinart for a unique partnership. At the helm of La Vague d'Or (Cheval Blanc Saint-Tropez) and Plénitude (Cheval Blanc Paris) - both LVMH properties, like Ruinart - Arnaud Donckele will develop culinary expressions around the different cuvées. For example, he will create signature menus to accompany white and rosé "Dom Ruinart" in his restaurants. This three-year partnership also extends to the gastronomic offer deployed in Reims with chef-in-residence Valérie Radou, or during major events organized by the house." With this artist of taste, Ruinart begins an authentic collaboration based on the same values ", insists its President, Frédéric Dufour.

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Moët & Chandon and Jean-Michel Bardet

In the year since he took over from Marco Fadiga (now at Dom Pérignon), his life hasn't really changed. As Executive Chef at Moët & Chandon, Jean-Michel Bardet moves between the kitchens of Épernay and abroad, just as he used to navigate between the Lapérouse in Paris and Hong Kong, via Flocons de Sel in Megève. " I remain committed to French excellence with an international dimension ", assures the 49-year-old chef, now at the helm of the Trianon residence and the Château de Saran. For all of them, he imagines pairings that are highlighted on the website or social networks. "It's important to share them with the public. We take the time to find the best pairing for each cuvée, in discussion with Benoît Gouez and the entire oenology team. To translate what the wine makes me feel. "

Perrier-Jouët and Sébastien Morellon

In the heart of Épernay's Avenue de Champagne, the Belle Époque house is an invitation in itself. With the largest private collection of French Art Nouveau - including works by Guimard and Toulouse-Lautrec - it's already a delight to visit. But Perrier-Jouët is determined to enhance the experience: a menu, inspired by Pierre Gagnaire, is prepared by chef Sébastien Morellon, who has worked on pairings, starting with the wine (the prestige cuvées) and working towards the dish. Reservations are required for this exclusive experience (€350 all-inclusive). In a different but still chic atmosphere, a few numbers from the house, the Cellier Belle Époque offers a continuous service champagne (and cocktail) bar with a catering service. The finger food to share and the clever dishes are also by Sébastien Morellon. Art is not absent either, in a more contemporary style.

Jacques Selosse and Stéphane Rossillon

Anselme Selosse (today taken over by his son Guillaume) has made this an iconic address in the region, obviously for its highly singular wines: "Brut Initial", "Version Originale", "Substance"... His cuvées are rare and highly sought-after. Not content with becoming one of his star winemakers, he has also given the village of Avize a fine dining experience, taking over in 2011 the aptly named hotel-restaurant Les Avisés, close to the domaine's cellar. In a family home atmosphere, Stéphane Rossillon's cuisine showcases local seasonal produce in a unique, brilliantly executed menu, all at reasonable prices, with a lovely terrace to boot. Formerly second-in-command to Anne-Sophie Pic in Valence, the chef works with his wife Nathalie in the dining room. "It's an extraordinary privilege for me to be in charge of pairing Anselme Selosse's champagnes," he confides.

Billecart-Salmon and Mauro Colagreco

Billecart-Salmon's alliance with top chefs goes back a long way. The first champagne Mauro Colagreco tasted when he started out in France, with Alain Passard, over twenty years ago, was the famous Billecart-Salmon "Brut Rosé". The partnership has grown to include the kitchens of the Mirazur in Menton: this year, the Italian-Argentinian chef became the official sponsor of the 2008 vintage of the prestige cuvée "Nicolas-François". "This wine of character reveals a beautiful roundness that evolves towards a citrus tension characteristic of Chardonnay", comments the chef who, for the occasion, created two plates: a beet rose, sculpted and perfumed with a hibiscus jus, and a lobster and radish tartlet. After Anne-Sophie Pic and Frédéric Anton on the "Élisabeth Salmon" and "Louis Salmon" cuvées, Mauro Colagreco completes a trilogy of great chefs serving the best of Champagne.

Mumm and Kelly Rangama

This is one of the latest initiatives of its kind, and perhaps the most original. Mumm has converted the family home, a late ^19th-century mansion, to open a table with chef-in-residence and a permanent brigade. Inaugurated by Mallory Gabsi last May, it passed into the hands of Florian Barbarot in August. The "Top Chef" alumnus, who launched his own Parisian restaurant, Quelque Part, has found his place here: With the emblematic "Cordon Rouge" vintage as his guiding principle, he has created "a free and unpredictable cuisine with unexpected combinations", in keeping with the total freedom the house allows its residents. The menu is available in 3, 4 or 6 sequences, starting at €65. The price is made all the more attractive by the fact that the wine list, signed by World's Best Sommelier Raimonds Tomsons, is just as affordable. As of November 30, Kelly Rangama (Le Faham, Paris) will take over. A foreign chef is expected for 2024...