Where to eat good risotto in France?
Fancy a good risotto? These addresses, from Paris to Nice via Avignon, won't disappoint.
Creamy, delicate, comforting... risotto is one of those Italian dishes that can transform a simple dinner into a true moment of indulgence. Behind its apparent simplicity lies a wealth of know-how: the mastery of rice, broth, time and gesture, which makes the difference between a banal dish and a memorable plate.
In France, a number of chefs and restaurants have seized on this Italian culinary staple to offer versions that are as precise as they are inspired. From Paris to Nice, via Lyon and Bonifacio, a number of establishments stand out for their mastery of risotto, whether traditional, creamy to the extreme or creatively revisited. Let's take a look at some of the best places to enjoy a risotto that's well worth the detour.
Finestra, Bonifacio
Perched on Bonifacio harbor, Finestra (2 toques) is one of Corsica's most spectacular dining experiences, where Italian cuisine meets the island's seafood, in a striking setting. Chefs Italo Bassi and Edoardo Menna create a refined and technical cuisine d'auteur, where risotto is served in a signature version "like a rock soup", cooked in a tomato fish stock, enriched with clams, mussels and fish from local fishermen.
- Where? 51 quai Jérôme Comparetti, 20169 Bonifacio
- See Gault&Millau's review of Finestra
Italy Là-Bas, in Avignon
In the heart of Avignon's historic center, Italie Là-Bas (2 toques) offers a highly personal and sensitive vision of Italian cuisine, led by chef Italia Palladino. In this intimate, well-cared-for restaurant, risotto is given a fresh, Mediterranean interpretation, with recipes that vary with the seasons. A good example is the risotto with marjoram, capers, sun-dried tomatoes, preserved lemon and burrata for fine weather... A vegetal and highly aromatic dish that illustrates an expressive cuisine, while remaining faithful to the classics.
- Where? 5 rue Violette, 84000 Avignon
- See the Gault&Millau review of l'Italie Là-Bas
Caffè Stern, Paris
Located in the Passage des Panoramas in Paris, Caffè Stern is one of the capital's most unique addresses, blending historical heritage with contemporary cuisine. Imagined by the Alajmo brothers and dressed by Philippe Starck, the place retains the hushed atmosphere of a former XIXᵉ century workshop, between antique woodwork, stained glass windows and intimate lounges. Among the house classics, risotto is a sure bet, adapted to the seasons. Take, for example, the version with asparagus, licorice powder and tandoori, a surprisingly vegetal dish that plays on aromatic contrasts.
- Where? 47 passage des Panoramas, 75002 Paris
- See Gault&Millau's review of Caffè Stern
Luca, in Rennes
in Rennes, Luca (1 toque) has established itself as one of the city's top-quality restaurants, driven by both a contemporary approach and a deep attachment to the great transalpine classics. In a sober, warm setting, the restaurant's cuisine is both precise and generous, with an emphasis on the product. Risotto takes pride of place, in ephemeral versions that change every two or three days according to inspiration. Among the creations: pumpkin risotto, taleggio and gorgonzola coulis with mascarpone, a parmesan and fig version, or saffron risotto with Calabrian pancetta.
- Where? 35 rue de la Chalotais, 35000 Rennes
- See Gault&Millau's review of Luca
Osteria Matto, Lyon
In Lyon's 6ᵉ arrondissement, Osteria Matto (1 toque) cultivates a certain idea of Italian tradition: precise, generous and without artifice. Chef Thomas Asti 's address defends a transalpine cuisine faithful to the fundamentals, where risotto occupies a permanent place on the menu. Here, there's no fixed version or compact preparation: the chef calls for risotto "all'onda", supple and perfectly mobile, soaked for a long time in stock, then blended with butter and real parmigiano to obtain a creamy texture. The recipes change every three to five weeks, depending on the season: artichokes and peas in spring; saffron, stracciatella, squash, sage and gorgonzola in autumn, or porcini and other mushrooms as soon as they arrive on the shelves.
- Where? 23 rue de Sèze, 69006 Lyon
- See Gault&Millau's review ofOsteria Matto
Ristorante Enoteca Italiana, Tours
in Tours, Ristorante Enoteca Italiana (1 toque) offers authentic immersion in the Italian culinary tradition. Faithful to the spirit of the Italian trattorie, the restaurant's cuisine is generous and easy to understand, with a menu that evolves with the seasons. Among the signature dishes, the squid ink risotto takes pride of place: deep, iodized and perfectly creamy.
- Where? 20 chemin de la Baie, 17590 Tours
- See the Gault&Millau review of Ristorante Enoteca Italiana
Allora, in Arles
in Arles, Allora (1 toque) has quickly established itself as one of the city's most seductive trattorias, celebrated for its sincere and contemporary interpretation of Italian cuisine. The menu is simple in appearance, but executed with real precision. Naturally, risotto is one of the must-try dishes, with the supple, creamy texture that purists are looking for. The recipe is adapted according to the season and the chef's inspiration.
- Where? 3 rue Dulau, 13200 Arles
- See Gault&Millau's review of Allora
Epiro, in Nice
just a stone's throw from the port of Nice, Epiro (2 toques) celebrates cuisine rooted in Roman traditions. Alessandra and Marco's restaurant has a warm, almost family atmosphere, where every plate has the flavour of a contemporary trattoria. While homemade pasta takes center stage, risotto is also one of the dishes that attracts fans of precise Italian cuisine. Varied according to the season (for example, with peas, curd and culatello), it always boasts the perfect creamy texture.
- Where? 53 boulevard Stalingrad, 06300 Nice
- See Gault&Millau's review of Epiro
