Le Cinq - Four Seasons Hôtel George V

Rating: 19
Author: Gault&Millau

75008 PARIS

19/20
Exceptional Restaurant

9 PHOTOS

Chef: Christian Le Squer
Cooking: French | Gastronomic | Signature cuisine
Services: Access for people with disabilities | Valet parking
Style: Elegant | Exceptional setting | Romantic

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

620

Gault&Millau's review 2026

Of course, performing a symphony alone at the piano isn't really possible. But doesn't France's great cuisine deserve conductors like Christian Le Squer if it is to continue to shine? Who has the means, the opportunity and, above all, the talent to write the music, have it simmered and fine-tuned by his experts (there are four of them, alongside the chef, working together on each new recipe) before having it performed by a group of virtuosos. Yes, the Four Seasons George V gives him the space he needs to create, but what splendor! What surety of taste, what quality of finish, what exclusivity! At this stage, and in the image of the Bugatti, McLaren and other Lamborghinis parked in front of the hotel's revolving door, it's obvious that there's no counting. The clientele comes from all over, but not from the neighborhood, not even from the country. There's no need to mention the average bill, which has been boosted by the immense cellar of splendors accumulated over the years by Eric Beaumard, but it is essential to pay tribute, once again, to those five-toque dishes that are the stuff of national greatness, no less: the rice "like paella" under the tuna belly that would make a sushi master weep, the turbot meunière with watercress maceration, and the line-caught sea bass with matured caviar and ribot milk show that, behind the clear, precise titles and limited number of ingredients, this is the finest cuisine around. The "standing" spaghetti with black truffle, ham and mushroom gratin is still there, but what a great moment this lamb epigram with its green spicy juice, and these few incredible bites of a wagyu like you've never tasted before. But the intensity doesn't wane with the desserts, as evidenced by the last cherries of the year, cooked with verbena and an irresistible almond clafoutis, or the voluptuous chocolate hazelnut crunch with a malty flavor. Great service, a great place, a great time: everything is great here in Paris.