Le Cinq - Four Seasons Hôtel George V

75008 PARIS

19/20
Exceptional Restaurant

9 PHOTOS

Chef Christian Le Squer

Cooking French | Gastronomic | Signature cuisine

Services Disabled access | Valet parking

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

595€

Gault&Millau's review

19/20

Exceptional Restaurant Christian Le Squer's unique cuisine is uniquely his own. For he and his huge team produce it with such ease, such precision, handling flavors that are both familiar and surprising, and in such consensual fashion that it can hardly be defined as anything other than an oxymoron: popular palace cuisine, princely bistro cuisine, ready-to-wear haute couture. One thing's for sure: this chef, capable of making the world's best pot-au-feu, fills the room at the George V every time he serves. These are not just Gulf tycoons, but rich, lucky epicureans. Every bite is gourmet, joyful and original: the sublime langoustines just stiffened with a secret mayonnaise and buckwheat pancake, the now-famous onion gratinée, the spider crab with rice, so enticing, so sensual that you can see the hand of a Breton in love, as on the caviar and ribot milk sea bass, a classic beautifully interpreted and barely diverted, with a unique suavity and mellowness. Nomicos has his famous macaroni, and Le Squer now also has his signature pasta, with "standing spaghetti" au gratin, truffle ham and mushrooms. And when he proposes lamb, it's for the best piece, those that the fools leave him, the epigram, with the delicious and crunchy panoufle. All these beauties do not overshadow the admirable palatial service that surrounds the plates, with Éric Beaumard as master of ceremonies, also unique in his genre, not only as an erudite sommelier with an eidetic memory, but also as a de luxe amphitryon who keeps the magic going throughout the meal, fine-tuned to the millimeter, with a waitstaff in tune. Excellent, delicate desserts, such as wild strawberries with sweet vinaigrette and sake milk flower, or crunchy candied and raw grapefruit. A naturally immense cellar, with everything from everywhere and of every vintage, administered by a very well-trained sommelier.