Le Cinq - Four Seasons Hôtel George V

75008 PARIS

19.5/20
Exceptional Restaurant

9 PHOTOS

Chef Christian Le Squer

Cooking French | Gastronomic | specialty

Services For people with disabilities | Valet parking

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

595€

Gault&Millau's review

19.5/20

Exceptional Restaurant You either have taste or you don't, and it's not a question of experience, fashion or talent. For some people make a career, and sometimes a fine one at that, without ever being on the same wavelength as either taste or the emotion that accompanies it. Perhaps provocatively, we might even add that taste is not a matter of debate. Increasingly jovial, sure of his choices, at the peak of his art, Christian Le Squer possesses that taste that so many fine knights of the kitchen shun. The more-than-luxurious surroundings of one of Paris's most fabulous palaces do nothing to distract him: he concentrates his energy, his intuition, his mastery and, in two plates, sits you down: with the osciètre caviar matured by Pétrossian and a shellfish water refreshed with pistachio, with the lobster, chosen from adults weighing over two kilos, which gives exceptional flesh, silkiness and chewiness, on an equally exceptional broth: so much sensuality, so many marvels that no longer have a price tag (we're approaching €200 per dish à la carte), referring to a pleasure dimension that naturally reaches new heights. The same is true of these "peasant dishes" with their gourmet elegance: the famous standing spaghetti au gratin with truffle, the mirific boudin "à la royale", with the ingenious idea of a passion infusion, or the imperial wagyu with fresh herbs and consommé. With his indispensable accomplice Eric Beaumard, master fireworker of a cellar of a thousand lights, taking the whole table into a fairy-tale farandole, he forms an unequalled and unique duo. As pastry chef Michaël Bartocetti relies on a very strong team to create desserts that are perfectly in tune with the match (a fine job on the strawberry crème brûlée and basil sorbet), it's the whole brigade that should be saluted, made up of top names who would delight many a fine table. This score is honored by great service, creating a very special universe of luxury, fluidity, ease and well-being.