L'Astrance

75016 PARIS

18/20
Prestige Restaurant

BOOK

6 PHOTOS

Chef Pascal Barbot

Cooking specialty

Services For people with disabilities

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

125€ à 285€

Gault&Millau's review

18/20

Prestige Restaurant "I've been with quite a few lobsters in my life, but I'd never known such intimacy with any of them before." So says our investigator, who has just returned from a meal at the new Astrance, the one on rue de Longchamp, the one at Joël Robuchon's Jamin d'antan and Gérard Besson's even further back. And the story comes full circle without stuttering. With Christophe Rohat, their indispensable alter ego, they redid everything from floor to ceiling, imposing noble materials, whitewashed walls, full French oak parquet, ceramics and linen, all offering a soothing, pure atmosphere. As for Pascal Barbot, it's not complicated - he's alive again! We found him as cheerful and enthusiastic as ever, in his kitchen twice the size of the one on Rue Beethoven. He can have fun with his new toys, his Mibrasa for binchotan, and above all his Hobart high-pressure oven, from which he gets this marvel of lobster, with its bisque and freshly polished koshihikari rice or, a little further on, the pig, each piece of crispy belly of which is a delicious bonbon. And a few bits of caramelized loin evoke the grace of a lacquered duck... In between, and at the chance of this meal of rebirth, there will have been this plate of shellfish, whelk, prairie, oyster, recreating an oceanic universe, the turbot, grilled skin and bards, herb and celery pesto, the delicate almond zucchini tartlet... Always a little ahead of his time, the chef who took the menu off the menu, mainly for practical reasons (the size of his kitchen) fifteen years ago, has now banished the single menu to once again offer choice to diners, who delight in such a sumptuous offering. A few fresh desserts (raspberry yoghurt sorrel vacherin glacé) keep them in a state of levitation, aided by Christophe's superbly orchestrated service of well-trained young people, the sommelier looking after a great cellar that remains attractive in all its lines, by its freedom, its commitment, its bias.