Le Gabriel - La Réserve Paris Hotel and Spa

75008 PARIS
18.5/20
 Prestige Restaurant
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© gregoire_gardette
© Romain Sandt
© gregoire_gardette
5 PHOTOS
Chef
Jérôme Banctel
Cooking
French | Gastronomic | Signature cuisine | Traditional
Services
Access for people with disabilities | Valet parking
Style
Elegant | Exceptional setting | Romantic
Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)
148 € to 410 €

Gault&Millau's review

18.5/20
Prestige Restaurant Pure excellence, a beautiful scenography, a form of restraint that pushes him to take a back seat behind the plates, collective works traced with clockwork precision... Jérôme Banctel belongs to the breed of the greatest, those who don't show off their muscles, tattoos and cavalry to exist. He is as proud of his Breton origins as he is of his classical training: a chef trained at the Lion d'Or in Liffré (the golden age of Brittany, when meals were served at Paineau, Thorel and the famous Michel Kéréver near Rennes) and who benefited from two decisive encounters in his career, Alain Senderens and Bernard Pacaud. He has retained a number of cardinal virtues, in addition to his own qualities: respect, transmission, faith in his teams and high standards. Every year, he reassures us with his mastery and precision, and every year, he amazes us with his imagination and virtuosity. And not necessarily with lobster and caviar: the two most impressive dishes this year were the sardine in gravlax and bell pepper, a true creation, quite universal in its taste harmony (lamb's lettuce and melting, creamy and gourmet, Brittany and the Mediterranean...), as well as the mackerel in gravlax and pepper, a true creation, quite universal in its taste harmony (lamb's lettuce and melting, creamy and gourmet, Brittany and the Mediterranean...)), like the mackerel, of unprecedented delicacy (the first skin removed, as in Japan), cooked in a cedar envelope with binchotan, finished under a cloche in aromatic steam, placed on a sea urchin, salicorne potato and bottarga condiment, bourride sauce like a mayo. And wham! You'll love it just as much as the large lobster and white peach section, which works very well, the very organic and earthy eel dish in beef jus colonnata with leek marrow confit and tempura, or the saddle of lamb panoufle on a smoked skewer, ravioli of faisselle and herbs on a very precise jus. La Réserve's plush dining room for the happy few is no laughing matter, but it's one of the most luxurious and best-frequented Parisian salons, and the service is well-paced and orderly, from the marine and Breton appetizers (oyster, caviar, avocado...) to the strawberry vanilla and rose geranium desserts, in the same subtle water as the above. A large, well-equipped cellar covering all the major regions, as well as the Jura, for example, and of course featuring owner Michel Reybier's vineyards, including the flagship Cos d'Estournel.
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Address 42 Avenue Gabriel
75008 Paris
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People
  • Jérôme Banctel
    Jérôme Banctel Chef
    Jérôme Banctel Jérôme Banctel Chef
  • Jordan Talbot
    Jordan Talbot Pastry Chef
    Jordan Talbot Jordan Talbot Pastry Chef
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    Alexandre Augé Chef de service
    Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4 Alexandre Augé Chef de service
  • Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4
    Gaëtan Lacoste Head sommelier
    Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4 Gaëtan Lacoste Head sommelier