La Truffière has a long history; it’s a institution, known for its traditional good taste and a wine list of fine vintages that once sent shivers down the spines of all of Paris. With a new team and a young director, Martin Saulais, who is fully committed to the project, there are promising signs that allow us to look to the future, even within this atmosphere that’s a bit old-fashioned but authentic. Beautiful appetizers and dishes that fondly evoke classic French cuisine: a garden of baby peas in vin jaune sauce, featuring high-quality gourmet ingredients—such as the veal skirt steak with zucchini and a lovely Bordelaise sauce, crispy buckwheat with gianduja and vanilla, served with watercress cream over a balsamic and chocolate reduction—dishes that demonstrate meticulous craftsmanship, even if they don’t exactly blow you away. The Truffière wine cellar does justice to the great vineyards, though it could use a bit of a refresh.