This is an insider's address, almost legendary for its vast cellar and its predilection for haute bourgeois and terroir cuisine. Habits remain, even if the times have changed, and chef Quentin Maisonnobe has managed to preserve his sense of values in a well-updated menu: artichoke with green beans and almonds, wild sea bass with salicornia, sweet potato and cucumber, beef parmentier with veal jus, saddle of Aveyron lamb with Roscoff onions and lamb jus. The bill is hefty (count around €100 with a good apricot crème crue focaccia dessert), but the work is well done and lives up to expectations.