A well-composed neo-bistro that uses fashionable, inexpensive ingredients to offer a menu that's nonetheless well-cooked with selected combinations: mackerel in cockle broth with lemon jam, saithe with green peas and beans, tomato water and raw cream, herb sorbet and chartreuse. For meat-lovers, there's mitre with pepper sauce, tomahawk or Normandy prime rib. Simple desserts, a warm welcome and friendly service despite the busy street. Lunch menu at €32.