La Gouesnière

Rating: 14
Author: Gault&Millau

35350 SAINT-MÉLOIR-DES-ONDES

14/20
Chef's Restaurant

BOOK

2 PHOTOS

Chef: Maxence Rouault
Services: Access for people with disabilities | Children's Menu | Cooking lessons | Pets allowed

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

76 to 130

Gault&Millau's review 2026

Is it the little train station right in front of this regional institution that makes successive chefs want to go so much further? In any case, after Thomas Vonderscher's departure in autumn 2024, it was his second-in-command, Maxence Rouault, who took up the torch. A successful illustration of "change with continuity". In a dining room that comes into its own when night has not yet fallen and the large bay windows can be appreciated, service is led by an experienced and courteous maître d'hôtel, assisted by an equally committed team that perfectly enhances the work of the kitchens. The numerous amuse-bouches already give every indication that the next course will be promising. For example, the oyster, fleshy to perfection, lightly poached before a short run in the binchotan, is the perfect partner for smoked haddock. Ribot milk and dill add a touch of freshness. The sea again, with top-quality pollock, perfectly cooked at low temperature and served in a medallion with a light shrimp stuffing. A well-sliced bone juice whips up the whole appropriately. The chef adds a spinach coulis and saffron gnocchi. Before the eye-catching chariot of mignardises, the dessert hits the spot: a small Armorique pear, candied and then lacquered with spicy notes. It is accompanied by a soft cookie, a pear caramel and a "full fruit" sorbet. As for the cellar, which targets the great regions, it bears witness to real ambition: chinon from Fabrice Gasnier, cheverny from Eric Louis, gigondas from domaine Amadieu, aloxe-corton from château philippe Le Hardi, pic-saint-loup from domaine Puech-Haut, alsace from domaine Sylvie Spielmann... Wide range of prices.