L'Écrin - Hôtel de Crillon

75008 PARIS
17/20
 Prestige Restaurant
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12 PHOTOS
Chef
Boris Campanella
Cooking
French | Gastronomic | Signature cuisine
Services
Access for people with disabilities | Valet parking
Style
Exceptional setting | Romantic
Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)
215 € to 265 €

Gault&Millau's review

17/20
Prestige Restaurant There's a kind of malicious pleasure in doing things the other way round, or at least in the way Boris Campanella does them, by breaking away from linear habits and classic progressions. It's a shepherd's knife on a table at the Hôtel de Crillon, a glass without a stem and menus without recipes, harmonies decided before the notes, and a whole experiment in originality, admittedly a little risky, but ultimately perfectly controlled. The chef creates a remarkable counterpoint between the grandes tables and his Savoyard origins, combining the finesse he learned from Lameloise and Troigros with the generosity of his childhood memories. At his table, the choice of glass decides the dish, and the ideas produced are equal to the pretensions. To accompany Berthet-Bondet's 2006 Château-Chalon, a remarkable liaison between foie gras poached for two hours in duck fat and artichoke (peppered and crisp), a dense and memorable double duck consommé for the coating, and a well-crafted idea on cuttlefish and fennel flower, whose aniseed flavour is a perfect match for the yellow wine. Sylvain Loichet's 2014 aloxe-corton is an earthy pinot noir that intuitively calls for sweetbreads, very well worked with a creamy and crispy buckwheat, Meyer lemon gel for a hint of acidity, an exemplary reduced veal jus. Finally, we end with Ghanaian chocolate in hot soufflé, a natural companion to Pinot Noir, with an interesting caramel and mushroom ice cream. Very pleasant service and comments on the wine. The cellar of MOF Xavier Thuizat, present at the agape, is one of the finest in the area, with over 2,500 references.
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Address 10 Place de la Concorde
75008 Paris
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Opening
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Monday Lunch Dinner
Tuesday Lunch Dinner
Wednesday Lunch Dinner
Thursday Lunch Dinner
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People
  • Boris Campanella
    Boris Campanella Chef
    Boris Campanella Boris Campanella Chef
  • Matthieu Carlin
    Matthieu Carlin Pastry Chef
    Matthieu Carlin Matthieu Carlin Pastry Chef
  • Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4
    François-Xavier Beaussant Chef de service
    Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4 François-Xavier Beaussant Chef de service
  • Xavier Thuizat
    Xavier Thuizat Head sommelier
    Xavier Thuizat Xavier Thuizat Head sommelier