The solid institution led by Marc Briand still has a bright future ahead of it. The multi-talented chef knows how to showcase his expertise in masterfully manipulating the marine environment, in well-conceived dishes with flawless technique: raw scallops with sea lettuce sorbet and tagetes oil, langoustine in pomegranate cabbage raviole with parmesan cream, sea bass topinambour with cuttlefish and cauliflower. The plates are graphic and sober, and the chef doesn't shy away from forays to the farm, as with this pigeon with new turnips. His four-course menu for €76 is almost a bargain, ending with an equally imaginative dessert of pear and tarragon with miso ice cream. The extensive wine cellar makes for an excellent pairing (a proposal of three glasses for €39).