A place steeped in history, where you're welcomed in period costume, with all the trimmings, a glass of champagne at the bar and a richly decorated dining room, even if it could do with a little more light on a winter's evening. The service is a little less grand, but makes a great effort to appear so, and the plates respect the spirit of the place, with varying degrees of success: The pumpkin flan with cream of fresh goat's cheese and fine herbs is a little timid, while the hare à la royale with red cabbage and carrot in color is more in line with expectations, and the declination of grand cru chocolates, Dulcey cremeux, pineapple chocolate ganache with coriander flambéed in amber rum looks good, all in equally stylish crockery. The cellar is full of great references, particularly from Bordeaux and Burgundy, and the Loire wines by the glass are more accessible, despite the absence of a real sommelier.