In the very chic Rue Grignan, there's something almost irreverent about the fiery spirit of this Grenat. It's a pleasure to showcase a cuisine where hands get dirty, where meats sweat over coals, where fat makes juices, where nothing is hidden from the natural metabolisms at work. At the same time, Antoine Joannier and Neil Mahatsry have created an ultimately elegant Mediterranean plate, remarkable for its seasonings and juices, such as this poultry liver parfait with a marrow bone and blueberry, oxalis, violet and shallot powder condiment, or this superb tenderly grilled lamb breast, hibiscus lacquered with a wild mustard emulsion (grown in their kitchen garden just behind), accompanied by fermented kohlrabi with a lovely acidity and a crunchy, contrasting texture. We end with a dessert that's a little more regressive, but not badly made, a malt and sunflower seed brownie, chai-infused cream and namelaka cream. A short, interesting cellar.