Here, the focus is on distilling a good dose of folklore for the clientele, who, especially if they come from abroad, are delighted to rediscover all the Parisian bistro codes: the deep purple banquettes, the elbow-to-elbow seating, the moldings, the mismatched crockery, the Nectoux zinc... But this Café Max is much more than that, because it's the excellent Frédéric Vardon (3 toques at 39V, avenue George V) who looks after the place, drawing up a fine slate featuring all the classics: filet de hareng pommes à l'huile, rognon de veau à la normande, filet de bœuf Rossini aux truffes noires, crêpes suzette or tarte tatin. The plates are generous, the products are good, the waiters play the right part, between false connivance and efficiency, and the cellar is a bit of a mishmash, but not too expensive.