The place is as magical as ever, 15 minutes from Toulouse's hypercentre and, thank God, Yannick Delpech is still an excellent chef, who finds the right concept, embraces modernity and delights his regulars. The spirit is there, as are the essentials, notably in the land-sea combinations and their juices, bisques, sauces... Among the highlights of this year's dishes, we'll remember the squid, bear's garlic and artichokes, the poutargue carrot burrata gamberoni and the somewhat daring marriage of beef cheek with Salers ribeye, mussels, anchovies and olives. The cellar is - deliberately? - limited, as the wine we recommend that evening, a Saint-Chinian from Domaine de Gabelas, is solidly priced.