"Cuisine de marché pour les gourmands": a slogan as simple as it is powerful, and one that a number of chefs would do well to emulate. No luxury products on the plate, just solid, serious fare: sardines in white wine, a rack of lamb roasted with thyme, a fillet of wild turbot roasted in salted butter and a mascarpone and raspberry delight to wash it all down. Smiling, dynamic service.