Finding a parking space in La Tranche-sur-Mer is about as difficult as climbing Everest in espadrilles. But it would be a real shame to miss Alexia Chaumont and Florentin Vasseur's astonishing table. A small, long room opening onto the kitchen, five or six tables and, to the side, with direct access through a bay window, the town's covered market and its asphalt floor, which is, of course, deserted in the evening. Once you've got over the surprise, you learn to appreciate this modern restaurant where the young couple (formerly of Le Cayola, not far from Les Sables-d'Olonne) share tasks equally, exchanging roles every week, one in the kitchen, the other in the dining room. A solid first toque for the pig's trotter with broad beans, almonds and redcurrants, a lively, gourmet starter, the combination of bourguignon, eel and fennel, and the lovely dessert with apple and wakame seaweed. The cellar is both very short and accessible, and the service is frank and smiling.