First of all, a word of warning: if you were ever so bold as to show up at Ortensia's door with a smaller number of guests than announced at the time of booking (online only, as the establishment has chosen not to use the telephone), you'd be fined, with the unpleasant feeling of having to end up on the picket line, like a schoolboy. Fortunately, Terumitsu Saito (ex-Pilgrim) is talented enough to help you digest this chilly welcome. His hidden menus, in 4 or 7 courses, demonstrate a real savoir-faire, combining superb products and perfect technique (the memory of a formidable yellowtail with its carrot variation, in particular, or a dessert based on soya and vanilla in a daring revisit of a millefeuille). The ex-Astrance has found a chef to live up to the myth, and now it's time to make the service less professorial.