La Table de Yoann Conte

74290 VEYRIER-DU-LAC

19/20
Exceptional Restaurant

BOOK

7 PHOTOS

Chef Yoann Conte

Cooking Gastronomic | specialty

Services Accomodation | For people with disabilities | Private parking | Valet parking

Gault&Millau's review

19/20

Exceptional Restaurant The quest for the essential, for authenticity, for purity... Yoann Conte will not deviate from this path in his beautiful bluish home, where hospitality is admirably expressed. A haven of tranquility and warm elegance, where wood plays a central role (ah, the magnificent walnut tables!), opening onto the wooded terrace and the waters of the lake. The young team of waiters, naturally at ease, glides from table to table with style and thoughtfulness, tactfully adapting to customers and situations. Yoann Conte himself is constantly present, from the glass kitchens to the dining room, from the dining room to the reception area, from the reception area to the kitchens, commenting on the dishes, serving, even passing a napkin to clean the table! It's a smiling, mischievous presence that ensures the link between the different links in the team, testifying to the dedication of the whole team to making those moments spent at table unique. Immersion in Yoann Conte's world, maritime (born in Brest), pastoral, lacustrian... begins at the very start of the meal with three bursts of flavor: monkfish worked like a charcuterie, lemon-caviar and seaweed, buckwheat galette and "homemade" black pudding enhanced with an apple-chervil condiment, followed by a potato galette with caraway mayonnaise and meat jus. All the dishes deserve to be cited as examples. For example, bondelle (the name given to the féra fished in Lake Neufchâtel), subtly smoked with beech wood, is expressed here in the most elegant of ways, accompanied by potato tagliatelle cooked in clarified butter with bay leaves. It's clean, unpretentious and understandable. To follow, beautiful crayfish, shelled and absolutely fresh, transcended by a bisque of exceptional finesse and flavor. A few roasted almonds, chanterelles and arugula round off this magnificent, devilishly gourmet composition. Let's open the vegetarian page with celery baked in the oven, then cut into thick slices that are galvanized by a "cavée" truffle purée (fully mature truffle, covered with beeswax and immersed in brine). A cappuccino with notes of meat and chicory finalizes this astonishingly brilliant dish that borders on perfection. It's time for the lamb, in the form of a pretty, pinkish rib, which we invite you to seize by the bone (covered, however, with a sort of wooden sleeve), not without having first topped the meat with an exquisite, well-buttered mashed potato, enlivened by a hint of pickled lemon. A great, relaxed dish! The cheese sequence is not to be missed! You're invited to head for the "fructerie", a small room off the kitchen where superb cheeses are displayed, including the chef's favorite, manigodine (cow's milk tomme). For a perfect transition to dessert, you're also invited to indulge, for example, in a lovely double cream topped with plump, flavorful strawberries and raspberries. Quetty, the young pastry chef, with her cart, takes you on a pretty country ride. Regain ice cream (2nd cut of hay) sprinkled with puff pastry twigs, pistachio-hummus ice cream sprinkled with dried porcini powder, brown mushroom chips and a grated licorice stick, finally, a pea sorbet electrified by a brunoise of Kalamata black olives, raw peas and a white balsamic vinegar reduction. A nasturtium flower adds the finishing touch. A pretty fireworks display before its time! The ultimate treat is the dessert cart... without a cart. Several waiters hurriedly placed various "touches" on the table to best express the idea of gourmandise and profusion: sugar tart with tomato confit, duchesse with Tahitian vanilla, roasted apricots and marmalade, rhubarb in different textures. A super-chocolate bite (70% Venezuelan chocolate). A moment of bliss. Just one more! On this subject, let's leaf through the cellar book, heavy, very heavy, remarkably well put together and whose eclecticism and pricing wisdom are to be commended, since it's possible to treat yourself from as little as €50 (savoie-jongieux from Château de La Mar, for example). The great labels are inevitably legion, but the excellent sommelier knows how to bring out the best in lesser-known winemakers. His passion, knowledge and complicity with the chef are immense, so you need to trust him blindly for the most appropriate food and wine pairing...