Auberge du Père Bise - Jean Sulpice

74290 TALLOIRES-MONTMIN

18/20
Prestige Restaurant

BOOK

11 PHOTOS

Chef Jean Sulpice

Cooking Gastronomic

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

250€ à 290€

Gault&Millau's review

18/20

Prestige Restaurant The narrow road alongside the lake, cars and bikes in single file, the charming church of Talloires, smiling and eager valets, a delicious welcome, the first moments of a moment of pure happiness. On sunny days, it's impossible to resist the call of the terrace, with its feet in the water, to take in the fabulous technicolor panorama, where the blues and greens of the lawn, trees, shrubs, lake and sky blend so harmoniously, speckled with the bright colors of sailboats, optimists and paragliders... It's time to sit down to dinner, in the comfort of a large dining room in chic, sober tones. This is the domain of a team whose elegance, liveliness and infectious good humor are to be commended. The first mouthfuls of food already reveal Jean Sulpice's unique universe, his sources of inspiration, his sense of harmony and meticulousness, and his discovery of the surrounding nature, particularly herbs and aromatic plants. In a highly successful visual effect, the crayfish caught by Florent Capretti, one of the few professional fishermen on Lake Annecy, seem to emerge from the mist. Perfectly cooked to preserve all their finesse, they are caressed with a luscious, frothy sabayon made from remarkably light grilled crayfish heads and a delicate vinaigrette of herbs and tarragon. The inevitable féra is magnificently combined with watercress in a sequence that is as subtle as it is lively. As a vegetal break, the rehabilitation of Swiss chard in different textures, notably stuffed with artichoke, enhanced with a chamomile infusion and Italianized by a few Piedmont hazelnuts, is a very sharp interlude. As for the sweetbread, nicely browned in hazelnut butter, it is accompanied by a meadowsweet sabayon with delicate almond notes and a declination of artichoke (purée, crunchy condiment, roasted heart). Before dessert, the sumptuous 24-month-aged Beaufort cheese is enjoyed in thin slices, slowly melting on the tongue... Then strawberries, in different textures (fresh, crunchy, strawberry water and lemon-pearl), rest on a smooth cream with notes of polypode (a fern whose roots have a subtle licorice taste), a nod to the chef's childhood. Chocolate and Savoy saffron are the ultimate combination for the last moments of plenitude... A table like this deserves a cellar to match its cuisine. And so it is! The thick book is divided into two parts, one of which is devoted exclusively, as it should be, to the finest that Savoie (in the historical sense, and therefore beyond the current appellation) has to offer. The new sommelier, Maéva Rougeoreille, conveys her passion with distinction, simplicity and erudition...