Les Plaisirs

06440 PEILLON

13/20
Chef's Restaurant

4 PHOTOS

Chef Romain Clavel-Millo

Cooking French | Local

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

28€ à 38€

Gault&Millau's review

13/20

Chef's Restaurant This is what happens when you fall into the cooking pot at the age of 7 and want to reproduce the fine gestures of your grandmother Aimée Millo in the days of the Auberge de la Madone, or want to knead your own bread like your grandfather, the Prix Goncourt winner Bernard Clavel. At the age of 21, he became the owner of his own restaurant, where Claude Brasseur's family had lived just a few years before. Fourteen years later, the image is still that of a postcard, with the medieval village of Peillon standing on its rocky outcrop in the hinterland of Nice, some twenty kilometers away. Climb a few steps and Romain Clavel-Millo appears, all smiles, busy at the stove under his mother's inspiring, benevolent gaze. One more flight of steps and you're in the restaurant, which you can only visit if you make a reservation well in advance. The chef transforms himself into a waiter and writes about what he's cooked. It changes all the time, depending on the day's pickings, the beautiful local produce found at the market and the treasures supplied by his producer friends. On the plate, the synthesis is ultimate, serving taste without compromise. You learn to eat again for €38. Every gesture counts, the vegetable, meat or fish is worked with precision because Romain knows its history. So, when this spelt risotto from Mont Ventoux arrives simply with a few artichokes en barigoule, mixed with this scallop just snacked on the way there and back and the homemade figatelli with the wild arugula sprig with a forgotten taste, it's because he went and found it all himself. Taste the spider pork, a rare delicacy (there are only two per pig) from a Gascony pig from Breil sur Roya, which has also enabled him to make so many fine things, coppa, lonzo, smoked bacon, guanciale (for real carbonara), cured ham... We end our journey at the origins of taste with Grandma Millo's immutable apple pie, made with apples, sugar, eggs, flour and butter. The other discovery is in the cellar, where the hundred or so references come from small producers or noble labels, a collector's cellar. The time spent here is suspended in the pleasures of taste.

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