Perched in La Turbie, Café de la Fontaine continues to write its history. Bruno Cirino, a good passer of the baton, has handed over his Turbiasque café to two young people trained at the École Bocuse, Sasha Dorfmann in the dining room and Michael Abihssira in the kitchen. Drawing on their past experience, with Yannick Alléno in Paris and Mauro Colagreco at Le Mirazur, they took over the legendary address with a simple idea: to offer good French cuisine that brings people together, the kind you sauce with good bread from the bakery next door. The bistro we love, where the execution of each plate favors evidence over effect, precise cooking, clean sauces and plates without overload. The white asparagus, still crunchy with its vegetal water, under a minute mousseline sauce, iodized with bottarga; the sautéed trout and the julienne of snow peas, still lively, and the Japanese emulsion of a dashi spiked with caramelized Iranian black lemon; finally, the fine apple tart, moist and crisp, with a touch of cinnamon. As for the cellar, it alone is worth the trip: between Burgundies of fine lineage, prestigious labels and small allocations, there's no shortage of choice. And then there's the service, which goes unnoticed but remains constantly present, precise and right on tempo. Café de la Fontaine is in very good hands, Chef.
Michael Abihssira Chef
