Le Bistro de la Tour

29300 QUIMPERLÉ

13/20
Chef's Restaurant

4 PHOTOS

Chef Nicolas Simon

Cooking French | Local

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

40€ à 70€

Gault&Millau's review

13/20

Chef's Restaurant This emblematic sign in the lower town has changed hands. The future looks bright! They're very young (well under 50 between them), they're tiptoeing along, their confidence isn't yet at its zenith, but their desire and talent are a pleasure to behold. Nicolas trained with Jérémie Le Calvez (Pomme d'Api in St Pol de Léon) and Julien Corderoch (Louise in Lorient). He didn't waste any time! So, of course, as time goes by, he'll imprint his own personality on his cuisine. Already today, in the course of his amazing menus, the fundamentals are expressing themselves: excellent sourcing of products, precision of cooking, balance of flavors. His compositions never bore. Admittedly, there's still the occasional temptation to show off, the superfluous syndrome. After delicate appetizers, it's time for mackerel and white asparagus, barbecued (slightly bitter) but also treated as a sorbet. The whole is irradiated with a dash of the inescapable yuzu. A new sea breeze follows with a shelled spider spiced up with a siphon mayonnaise made from the inside of the shell. Puffed buckwheat and a sprinkling of hazelnuts complete the dish. The sea journey comes to a close with a beautiful pavé of pollack accompanied by sweet peas. As for desserts, let's not forget the apple and shiso pressé, refreshed by a ribot milk ice cream that lives up to all its promises. In the dining room (luminous, elegantly appointed, without excess), Ambre provides a thoughtful and delicate welcome and service. Although the wine cellar remains relatively modest, it provides the essentials at very reasonable prices: muscadet Jo Landron, quincy from domaine Roux, anjou blanc from Château de Plaisance, côteaux d'aix from Château La Coste, vacqueyras from domaine la Ferme des Arnaud, terrasse du larzac from domaine Le Clos Rouge...