L’Atelier Mélanie

29340 RIEC-SUR-BÉLON

13/20
Chef's Restaurant

3 PHOTOS

Chef Laura Martinon

Cooking French | Gastronomic | Local

Services Children's menu | Privatization | Terrace

Gault&Millau's review

13/20

Chef's Restaurant On the immaculate wall opposite the restaurant, a trompe-l'œil portrait pays homage to Mélanie Rouat, the first great Breton chef of the 1930s and beyond. Her great-great-grandson is now continuing the family story. Jean-Baptiste Caillarec and Laura Martinon have also breathed new life into the local school. The room, with its white walls, light-colored floor and ceiling, and wide windows opening onto the charming terrace or parking lot (a blackout blind wouldn't be out of place), lets in plenty of light. The sober decor doesn't detract from comfort. However, a few adjustments would undoubtedly make this young house a little warmer, especially when the weather's not so kind. On the other hand, the dishes are sunny, beautifully arranged in terms of flavor and aesthetics. Cucumber, feta (barrel-aged) and seaweed sorbet are the summery start to a sirtaki and Breton dance. The same lightness and gustatory pleasures with a tartare of veal and smoked pollack topped with thin slices of button mushrooms. Garden herbs are combined with a tangy cream to set the right rhythm. This is followed by an impeccable ikejime sea bass with crispy skin, highlighted by a delicate foam of lemon balm. A few mussels help to reinforce the marine dimension, and the vegetable menu is revealed in the form of zucchini in various textures. Optimum freshness in the final phase with a variation on raspberries and peas, followed by cherries in clafoutis, cream and sorbet. The future is assured! The cellar book is not very thick, but has been carefully put together: Alsace from Domaine Bott Geyl, Bugey from Maison Bonnard, Châteauneuf-du-Pape from Alain Jaume, Beaujolais from Anthony Perol... The table near the airlock leading to the kitchens should be avoided.

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