It's the revelation of the last few years in Saint-Étienne, a discreet restaurant that can now count on a loyal clientele, happy to find Matéo Ravel's ideas constantly renewed. It's a pocket restaurant with an open kitchen, boasting a peasant cuisine that changes every two months. This time, a panko breaded sapper's apron, apricot jangaji and grapefruit sriracha, celery pickles, pike-perch cookie, pike-perch confit in walnut oil, Jerusalem artichoke purée, walnut emulsion and Jerusalem artichoke pressé with nori seaweed and kumquat virgin, barbecued veal grenadin, parsnip purée, pan-fried chanterelle mushrooms, brown beer jus and mustard croutons, hare à la royale with black truffle and foie gras, or pressed endive and baked apples, Breton shortbread, chicory ice cream and vergeoise whipped cream. Superb cellar, with several hundred references from all over France.