L'Auberge Sauvage

50170 SERVON
14.5/20
 Chef's Restaurant
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4 PHOTOS
Chef
Thomas Benady
Cooking
French | Healthy cooking | Local | Modern | Signature cuisine
Style
Casual | Romantic | With family
Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)
120 €

Gault&Millau's review

14.5/20
Chef's Restaurant The name sounds like a promise of bliss for urbanites. A return to nature is guaranteed in this tiny village, so peaceful yet nestled less than 10 kilometers from Mont Saint-Michel. The inn occupies the former presbytery, surrounded by a garden that is barely tamed, but which provides a constant source of supply and inspiration for Thomas Benady. When the weather's fine, you're invited to sit back and relax before dining. Service doesn't begin until all guests are seated in the pleasant, uncluttered yet warm dining room, where the emphasis is on raw materials (wood, concrete, etc.). When night falls, John Felici's hanging lamps provide a subdued source of light. So, yes, everyone comes to the table at the same time, and the pace of service is set according to the slowest guest... This contributes to the experience of "decompression". No more time constraints! Let's take a moment to savor the "hidden" menu and its many sequences, which immediately illustrate Thomas's largely vegetable, often marine, colorful and, of course, natural universe. Cucumbers, in all their virginal purity, are paired with tagetes water. Flowers and herbs provide a poetic visual. Green beans - from the garden - served crunchy, are well enhanced by a balanced red onion water. This "water" can be enjoyed straight from the bowl. It's so fresh! Next, the sea breeze creeps in thanks to a beautiful oyster and the presence of seaweed, but the iodine finally wins out over the tomato water that completes the plate. This is followed by a very nice presentation of smoked brill roe on a crispy tartlet, enhanced by the aniseed notes of fennel and the controlled acidity of unripe grapes. A Mexican incision with a taco topped with lobster claw meat, pleasantly vegetalized by summer purslane. As for the acidity of sorrel (in sauce), it's perfectly suited to a redfish fillet also spiced up with a sort of pesto and roasted sunflower seeds. A surprising, even controversial dessert in the form of yogurt with hazelnut butter and fermented honey, accompanied by a small doughnut with ewe's cream (very sweet). In total harmony, the cellar is made up of "natural" wines (Savoie from Jean-Yves Péron, but also from Camille and Mathieu Apffel; Jura from Damien Grappe; in the Rhône valley, Domaine de l'Anglore...). Numerous ciders, some of them "haute-couture", as well as a handful of carefully selected digestifs (e.g. Laurent Cazotte's pear eau-de-vie). Delicious service from Jessica.
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Address 3 Place Saint Martin
50170 Servon
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    Thomas Benady Chef
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