L'Abysse - Hôtel Hermitage

98000

17/20
Prestige Restaurant

BOOK

Cooking Gastronomic | Japanese

Services Accomodation | Valet parking

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

240€ à 360€

Gault&Millau's review

17/20

Prestige Restaurant This is Yannick Alléno's second foray into the depths and prodigies of Japanese cuisine, and his second success in the sumptuous setting of the Hôtel Hermitage, where he has already set up his Pavyllon in the chic suburbs after the Parisian unit. He's brought along the big name of the genre, Yasunari Okazaki, a kaiseki master who's been accompanying him to Paris for the past six years. The result, on the large Omakase menu, is a marvellous sushi prepared with meticulous attention to detail, extreme quality of the rice, the marine ingredient, the appropriate Mediterranean touch (a hint of tomato on the bass, dill on the mackerel...), brilliantly accompanied by local fish (gambero rosso, cuttlefish, amberjack, red mullet and of course tuna, in three versions, one of which is very inventive with rillettes and trimmings). The program is punctuated by a variety of feats thought up by Yannick Alléno (sole extraction and broth in "praise of neutrality", lobster with zucchini flower pollen ginger sea grapes, langoustine with a mysteriously addictive mayo and grated Meyer lemon ....) and executed with energy and precision by a concerned brigade, evolving in the center of the ten-seat counter, with another ten or so spread out on the table in close communion with the theme. A fine succession of desserts (amamis) varying in flavor and texture (strawberry aloe vera shiso ice cream, black sesame bricelet, coffee coldbrew, seaweed crisp and jasmine cream...). Sake and wine pairings are also well thought-out and interesting.