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Château de la Gaude, the art of living in Provence

Château de la Gaude, the art of living in Provence

Nestled between vineyards and garrigue, like a picture-perfect postcard of posh Provence, Château de la Gaude attracts foreign tourists in summer and locals out of season. This aesthetically pleasing haven houses an 18th-century bastide facing a French garden, acres of vineyards and no fewer than four culinary experiences orchestrated by chef Matthieu Dupuis Baumal.

Laurène Petit

The château's history began with Aix-en-Provence bishop Joseph Pisani de la Gaude, who died in 1804. Various families from local high society subsequently walked the aisles of the Bastide, right up to the Barons de Vitrolles, the last owners before Didier Blaise bought the estate in 2016.the entrepreneur, founder of Allopneus and wine enthusiast, embarked on an impressive three-year renovation project, transforming the château into a luxury hotel, recently registered with Relais & Châteaux.

A lover of contemporary art, Didier Blaise's embellishment of the site included the scattering of monumental works by his favorite artists: provençal artist Bernar Venet's indeterminate lines as horizon lines below the formal gardens, César's bronze Ginette statue, Philippe Pasqua's flashy shark Who should be scared? by Philippe Pasqua at the end of an avenue of chestnut trees, or the famous Vanité aux papillons - a giant skull with golden butterflies protruding from it. from which golden butterflies emerge - by the same artist, strategically positioned near the reception area.an intriguing marriage of classical 18th-century architecture and glittering modernity! Finally, in the Kaiseki restaurant, it's impossible to miss the imposing pink-feathered helicopter by Portuguese artist Joana Vasconcelos, which once occupied the gilded salons of the Château de Versailles.

Seven rooms and suites make up the main bastide, overlooking the gardens. Uncluttered decor, white marble, antique parquet floors, ceiling moldings and imposing fireplaces all contribute to the impression of tranquility and comfort without extravagance. The adjoining longères, with their exposed beams and light oak furnishings, are home to ten bedrooms with a more country feel, but always with the same meticulous attention to detail.

Away from view, the three "Lucioles" - large, round wooden rooms coiled up in the middle of nature - and the "Maison dans les Vignes" add a tempting proposition for lovers of unusual nights. This hotel offer is complemented by a superb spa judiciously placed in the former stud farm, as well as seminar rooms and reception areas that can be privatized for weddings or corporate events.

Chateau De La Gaude Chambre © Côté Provence Photo
côté Provence Photo

A living vineyard

Grenache, cinsault, syrah, cabernet sauvignon, rolle, sémillon, clairette, viognier, marsanne, roussanne. Around the 13-hectare estate, no fewer than eleven grape varieties are grown on 19 parcels in the Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence PDO and IGP Méditerranée appellations. Thanks to a rare heritage of old vines planted on organic and Demeter-certified plots, and biodynamic viticulture, this vineyard is the natural expression of a terroir of sandy marl and sandstone. A terroir that is reflected in the bottles vinified directly on site under the watchful eye of Vincent Gonidec, cellar master, who strives to express the best of the fruit of each harvest, thanks to Italian amphorae and gleaming vats. " I'm spoiled here ," he confesses as he polishes his magnums of rosé.

Wine is also on the agenda, with tastings of the estate's bottles in the château's various restaurants and bars, but above all, there's a place that only a handful of discerning customers know about: La Table des Vignerons, hidden away in the heart of the stunning cellar lined with almost 40,000 bottles. Here, some 4,000 wines from Provence, France and around the world are just a glass away, enhanced by the invaluable advice of sommeliers Nicolas Parmentier and Xavier Bostetter. This proud Alsatian's bottle of the moment? A Riesling - of course! - Clos Sainte-Hune" 2017 from Domaine Trimbach: " An emotion I had when I was an apprentice," enthuses Xavier Bostetter.

Four reasons to dine

Four dining areas, each as different as the children of a blended family: Le Art, run by chefs Matthieu Dupuis Baumal and Matthieu Derible. In the luminous dining room facing the open kitchen, with its state-of-the-art equipment, Provence can be savored on the plates: red mullet lacquered with organic saffron from Manjolive in the Gard, lamb from Sisteron, strawberries from the Ventoux, lemon from Nice... Regional ingredients and a few Japanese touches weave a fine red thread with the restaurant Kaiseki and the brasserie Le K, where chef Kazunari Noda officiates, still working four hands with Matthieu Dupuis Baumal.in the spirit of omakase - which literally means "trust the chef" - precise small plates are served in a room lined with oak barrels.

Château De La Gaude Restaurant © We on It Studio
we On It Studio

one corridor away, the brasserie La Source. Its name refers to the happy discovery made by workers during the renovation of one of the future restaurant rooms: behind the stone, a natural spring dating back to the 12th century, clear as rock water, which once supplied Paul Cézanne's neighboring town thanks to a small aqueduct that can be seen as you enter the estate. Some of the best tables have been ingeniously placed next to a stone basin with beautifully lit arches. During your visit, ask to take a peek behind the door that hides the remains of the spring, allowing you to step back in time. Once you've had your fill of the place, let yourself be tempted by a steak au poivre, tartare or lobster pasta.

Château de la Gaude

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