Even the most reluctant are carried away: you can't help but follow Matthieu Dupuis Baumal, in his panache, his enthusiasm, his extravagance at times, but with such energy, he sweeps away any apprehensions and takes you into his world. In fact, this superb wine château is the stuff of dreams: the large cellar you visit at the entrance to the building serves as an hors d'oeuvre, and the XXL performance of this very complete brigade owes much to the drive of its captain. The menus are well-structured, divided into a number of courses, with the most opulent offering the entire menu. You'll find the essentials in the "Provence vagabonde" at €190, with solomillo and osciètre Sturia caviar, ceps and Mediterranean muge with Piedmont hazelnuts, saffron-glazed red mullet and carabineros flambé on tamarind stave and head juices. Over the years, the troublemaker has mellowed to make way for a chef in full possession of his means, confident and streamlining his dishes without losing his gourmet touch. Lemon and olive oil, Solliès fig and sesame praline for a happy ending, in the comfort and pleasure of a service that's always present, without you even guessing it, and beautifully efficient. The domaine's wines and many others, the list growing every year to include an impressive array from all regions. Editor's note: Matthieu Dupuis Baumal has announced his departure from Château de la Gaude. Matthieu Derible is taking over the reins. More on this soon.