This quiet corner is now the domain of Jean-François Pantaleon, who doubles his business with his nearby Thelma. In the main house, he continues to distill the discreet, cutting-edge gastronomy we love, handling the poor as well as the rich with the same precision, in an elegantly sober setting: cuttlefish tagliatelle with pan-fried foie gras and umeboshi on a dashi broth, lacquered duck with potato gnocchi stuffed with saté lacquered gratin, crispy veal sweetbreads pressed with parsnip and citron confit jus réduit. This is real pro cooking, right down to the creamy mont-blanc rhum marron cassis meringue, which brings the à la carte menu to around €60 - €70. Wise lunch menu at €29, service well briefed, in the right tone, smiling and exact.
