Restaurant au Lion d'Or Chez Théo Baumlin

Rating: 10.5
Author: Gault&Millau

68128 VILLAGE-NEUF

Selected

26 PHOTOS

Chef: Théo Baumlin
Cooking: French
Services: Access for people with disabilities | Children's Menu | Cooking lessons | Delivery Service | Garden | Pets allowed | Private Parking | Takeaway
Style: With family

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

38 to 72

Gault&Millau's review 2025

Since 1928, five generations of the Baumlin family have succeeded one another in this imposing house just a stone's throw from Alsace's little Camargue. Elisabeth acts as maître d'hôtel and advises on the wines, while Théo treats the locals to asparagus, game and Châteaubriand. This time, we succumbed to the "around the goose" menu featuring pan-seared foie gras, albeit downgraded by a poorly seasoned and far too abundant lamb's lettuce salad, followed by a generous plate of St. Martin's Day goose in which the bird is presented in several ways: slices of breast with skin, the leg, a well-prepared stuffing and jus. We also tasted a traditional foie gras terrine, accompanied by a marmalade of apples "from our orchard" with gewurztraminer and a home-made brioche bun, a little bland. The pan-fried pike-perch, served on sauerkraut, crayfish nage, bacon chips, cubes of pumpkin confit and Riesling sabayon, seemed a little dry to us. Once again, the 15/20 dessert was a surprise. Clément Hadorn, who trained with the greats and was head pastry chef at Tanja Grandits, is an expert in this field: delicious "Péché de la pomme", with a heart of tarragon confit. This "péché mignon" is elaborated with an unctuous vanilla-white chocolate cream of unprecedented indulgence.