Masaki Nagao has left Duende in Nîmes to take over the kitchens at Pilgrim, and he's off to a very promising start. His cuisine is precise and elegant, based on seasonal produce and a happy marriage between France and Japan. Lunch is €55, dinner €75 for four courses and a seven-course tasting menu for €130. Saint-jacques, chervil confit, beurre blanc; sautéed mushrooms and onions under a buckwheat galette, followed by a tasty pigeon and foie gras tourte and, to finish, a sugar dome enclosing apple sorbet and pineau des Charentes sabayon. A wine list that needs to be expanded, by adding a list of wines by the glass. Good service and open kitchen.