Jihyun Kim and her partner Simon Plantrou met at Alain Passard's. She, a South Korean trained at the Institut Paul Bocuse (now Lyfe), is a former pupil of Christian Têtedoie and Bertrand Grébaut (also an alumnus of l'Arpège). He, the Norman, worked in the dining room at Passard. As they approached their thirties, the two young men decided to open their own restaurant, not without the help of the Gault&Millau Endowment for Young Talent, and set their sights on Marc Delacourcelle's former Vitis, in the heart of the 15th arrondissement. Beautiful scallops in carpaccio married with violet sea urchin from Brittany and squash extraction for the first course, spinach combined with sorrel, wild sesame and bottarga for a second, very plant-based course that shakes things up, a gourmet grilled leek confronts a cream of Auvergne blue cheese and kiwi gold (slightly warmed, a nice risk) before a dazzling grilled langoustine and shellfish for a sequence that, in small touches, furiously recalls the spirit of Septime. The cellar is still under construction, and the elegant Simon Plantrou provides discreet, apropos service for two encouraging toques.