Perhaps the best way to approach this distinguished restaurant in the Fouré district is through the cellar. Good choices, a few nuggets like Domaine Veilloux's Romorantin, at a fair price, and it's in the wine by the glass and the game with the sommelier that you'll get the most pleasure, (re)discovering native grape varieties vinified by independent winegrowers. On the plate, Romain Bonnet is a fine chef, who sometimes tries too hard to live up to a gastro image that sometimes lacks simplicity and straightforwardness, even though the products are remarkably well sourced. A case in point is the firm-textured diver's abalone, flanked by a dry, hard nashi pear. Magnificent diver's scallops, which could do without the carrot slice, before the wagyu beef and citrus dessert, well inspired in this season, featuring a stunning veil of meringue and salty sweet notes.
