In Paris, one nail chases another, and here's how Belle Maison and its two toques disappeared to make way for this Savarin on rue Navarin, a new unit in Franck Baranger's Pantruchoise group (Pantruche, Caillebotte...). A very clean, very professional bistro in a well-crafted setting, with a menu that's very much of its time, following local codes, somewhere between bouillon and bourgeois: pâté en croûte, tripes au vin blanc, oeufs meurette, saint-jacques crème de lard fumé, vol-au-vent de lotte, côte de cochon frites et sucrine... It's clean, well-served, spotless and already working very well, with an attractive, personalized wine list.