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37-39 rue Boissière
75016 Paris
France

Phone : 01 41 40 99 80

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L'Évadé

75009 PARIS
13/20
 Chef's Restaurant
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6 PHOTOS
Chef Rémi Poulain
Cooking French | Modern
Services Disabled access | Privatization
Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)
36€ à 62€
Gault&Millau's review
13/20
Chef's Restaurant Rémi Poulain (already at the helm of l'Escudella in the 7ᵉ, where he succeeded Top Chef Paul-Arthur Berlan) and his partner Anthony Rivière, in the dining room, took over ex-23 Clauzel in September 2023. Old regulars will have more or less recognized the decor (the old beams, the view of the pretty Place Toudouze from certain tables...) even if it has been modernized (you don't have to like the contrast between the deep black tables and the deep red armchairs), others will come above all for the solid reputation of the chef, whose CV includes a number of top names. His cuisine is in tune with the times, both canaille and graphic, not avoiding the clichés of the neighborhood (tuna ceviche, pâté croûte, chocolate soufflé), but displaying fine intentions on the more personal dishes: Nice work on the first white asparagus, covered with parsley and sweet garlic cream (one of the chef's hallmarks) and paired with a gourmet hollandaise, well-worked saithe, with its sweet, crunchy peas, tuiles and lemon beurre monté that awakens the ensemble (too bad the container is so impractical) before a fine entrecôte of veal in a hazelnut crust, cooked rare, green asparagus and mashed potatoes. A well-crafted dessert featuring vanilla cream, basil and caramelized apple, an interesting cellar and a generous selection of spirits.
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Address 23 Rue Clauzel
75009 Paris
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Rémi Poulain Chef
Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4 Rémi Poulain Chef

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