La Vague d’Or – Cheval Blanc St-Tropez

83990 SAINT-TROPEZ

19/20
Exceptional Restaurant

BOOK

15 PHOTOS

Chef Arnaud Donckele

Cooking French | Gastronomic | specialty

Services For people with disabilities | Private parking | Valet parking

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

415€ à 450€

Gault&Millau's review

19/20

Exceptional Restaurant Even for the jet-setters, even for the divas, even for the jaded, who spend a few nights in their ocean-going yacht between Moustique Island and Rangiroa, even for those who have the whole world at their feet and to whom everything is ceded, an evening at La Vague d'Or remains a privilege. Because, while all the guests have roughly the same considerable power, there are, all summer long, only about thirty lucky ones who get to taste the moment and Arnaud Donckele's cuisine. The kindest, most modest and most talented of France's great chefs is also one of the most sought-after, and his restaurant is full all summer here, and all the rest of the year at Plénitude-Cheval Blanc Paris. And this fever is hardly surprising. Each season brings its share of novelties, exclamations, stage settings, on-air presentations and perfumes, all created by the inimitable Thierry Di Tullio, whose colorful Provençal verbiage always delights guests. This year's menu featured some very Donckelian dishes: anchovy from the open sea with a sabayon of lingonberry juice in a skilful balance of vegetal and seafood, or even red mullet, the woodcock he knows so well how to magnify, this year with mona lisa gnocchi, sabayon of mantis de mer juices and orange wine, and an aigo-sau broth to further reveal its power. But also, as with every experience, unexpected delight with this plate of "salicoques", a true revelation of these three shrimps that, thanks to him and the years spent, we think we know so well, the gambon, the gamberoni from San Remo or the shrimp-bouquet, for a great and memorable dish. If this is not the most astonishing aspect of his culinary character, his ability to literally "re-read", as he proves a little later, a turbot or a pigeon, is an inextinguishable source of wonder. This year, thanks to the new pastry chef, we'll be adding some majestic desserts, very palatial, very presidential dinners and perfectly accurate gourmands, including apricot in vacherin and "cryonie", perfumed with almond and tagetes. The service is gentle and serene, aware of its responsibilities and in the right tempo. The cellar is imposing and reassuring, and the sommelier juggles beautiful labels with not-so-extravagant prices.