La Chèvre d'Or

06360 ÈZE
17.5/20
 Prestige Restaurant
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© James Pouliot
© James Pouliot
10 PHOTOS
Chef
Tom Meyer
Cooking
French | Gastronomic | Signature cuisine
Services
Pets allowed | Private Parking | Valet parking
Style
Elegant | Romantic
Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)
160 € to 340 €

Gault&Millau's review

17.5/20
Prestige Restaurant It's the second season, and yet it's only the beginning of the adventure for Tom Meyer at La Chèvre, for whom we can already feel a path and even an itinerary taking shape. It's that of a gifted young man, known at times to be in a hurry and impetuous, who now seems happy to take a long-term view. Like Jean-Marc Delacourt, Philippe Labbé, Ronan Kervarrec and, more recently, Arnaud Faye, he has everything in hand to write another great chef's story. In this, his second summer in the mythical Azascan bastion, we noted an initial evolution, that of a calm, well-balanced and harmonious cuisine, stripped of graphics and trickery, even to the point of sometimes lacking that touch of whimsy and will-o'-the-wisp illumination that is also his signature. Apart from the flambéing of the gamberoni with agave liqueur, which startles the guests and their neighbors, this Julytiste sequence appears almost wise. Yet it is marked by the talent and mastery of this 32-year-old MOF prodigy. The appetizers are pleasant and a tad anodyne, but the meal builds to a powerful climax with shrimps from San Remo, almonds and rhubarb, a suave reduction of the heads with fig leaf, and the climax of the meal, the beef tongue, slow-roasted in its broth, cherry and beet, with a Provençal herb sauce, a perfectly balanced, original and accomplished dish. You can then let yourself be carried away: the tuna ventresca with binchotan, like last year's wagyu, makes a delicious lichette on cucumber and kiwi shiso ice as a condiment, the red mullet mezcal brocoletti bell pepper reduction looks like a provincial hotel dish and yet reveals a remarkable finesse (the power of the sauce on the organic truth of the fish king of Mediterranean rocks) ; finally, the three-piece pigeon, a bonbon to be savored as a starter, on the liver, the supreme with an excellent, finely cocoaed sauce, the leg as a gourmet mouthful.. Florent Margaillan takes over with a Paille d'Or-style raspberry, basil and verbena sorbet, and a magnificent work on Piedmont hazelnuts. This magical room, with its plunging view over the sea, Cap Ferrat and the Baie des Anges, lends itself to a brilliant performance: director Yann Vaye plays the role to perfection, with a few Jean-Pierre Marielle accents to reinforce the impression, and the young team is as efficient and committed as it is smiling, especially the entire sommelier team, led by the brilliant Mathieu Selier: there's plenty to do with this cellar of 1,800 references and 17,000 bottles, collecting the bulk of the prestige labels and having quickly made up for its few shortcomings to offer a great, vast panorama, adding to the well-known names everything that counts in the estates we're talking about (e.g. Myrko Tepus, Villa Minna and Clos de l'Ours in the region, Belargus and Bellivière in the Loire, etc.).
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Address Rue du Barri
06360 Èze
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Opening
Opened today
Monday Lunch Dinner
Tuesday Lunch Dinner
Wednesday Lunch Dinner
Thursday Lunch Dinner
Friday Lunch Dinner
Saturday Lunch Dinner
Sunday Lunch Dinner
People
  • Tom Meyer
    Tom Meyer Chef
    Tom Meyer Tom Meyer Chef
  • Florent Margaillan
    Florent Margaillan Pastry Chef
    Florent Margaillan Florent Margaillan Pastry Chef
  • Yann Vayé
    Yann Vayé Chef de service
    Yann Vayé Yann Vayé Chef de service
  • Mathieu Selier
    Mathieu Selier Head sommelier
    Mathieu Selier Mathieu Selier Head sommelier