La Chèvre d'Or

06360 ÈZE

17/20
Prestige Restaurant

10 PHOTOS

Chef Tom Meyer

Cooking Cuisine d'auteur | French | Gastronomic

Services Pets are allowed | Private parking | Valet parking

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

160€ à 340€

Gault&Millau's review

17/20

Prestige Restaurant Brilliant and annoying... But so brilliant! Today's meal at the Chèvre d'Or is built by a Space X rocket named Tom Meyer, who arrived in late spring to succeed Arnaud Faye, who left for the Bristol. Let's skip the annoyance: this is the Chèvre d'Or, a little piece of the mythical Riviera, the famous sculpted goat dominating the coast, the sparkling view over Cap Ferrat and beyond to the Baie des Anges, the waves sparkling beneath the sheer drop... A team of young people on hand to welcome guests, a touch show-off, well-dressed, smiling, reciting by heart all the well-learned lessons, available for foreign customers who want to enjoy the show. And there are some! Isn't the chef here? Is he? Never mind... Isn't the pastry chef here? Is he? We'll do without him. Isn't the head sommelier here? We'll take some wine anyway, there's plenty of prestige in the cellar. The faux beurre, mixed with olive oil, is placed on the table with the various breads. Let's get started! The first two dishes leave a vinegary acidity on the palate, the fifth an excess of salt (the pissalat on the yellowtail, a great dish nonetheless). Not a good start, you might think. But it does! Even if the chef is at the beach, his team, some of whom come directly from his previous Granite, know how to read and translate Tom Meyer into the text. What's up? So, in spite of all that, we find ourselves clapping our hands a little, because these dishes are in the upper register, of exceptional gratin, of a French excellence already fully identified: the muge in carpaccio, sliced shrimp vinaigrette with basil oil and dried grapefruit, it's colorful, graphic, Castelbajac and it's excellent, even addictive. We skip the tomato, a pleasant transition, for the kiwi cucumber sorrel beef jerky on which a lightly grilled slice of Japanese wagyu lies, an "extra" dish that clatters divinely, announcing the sardine, finished with a blowtorch ("to recall a Mediterranean barbecue") with a garum ("an old-fashioned sauce") and a tiger sauce ("it's his camouflage sauce"), crunchy matcha green beans and pistachio. We'll forget the sweetbreads, a little distorted by a slightly firm shell and a rubbery pastrami bao that doesn't quite fit, to taste Florent Margaillan's excellent desserts, based on well-polished figs and, above all, Mexican vanilla, a sober, delicate and chic plate. Four toques of course, in spite of everything and thanks to everything else, because this talent can't be passed up. The future belongs to him, and it may well be a bright one. An extensive cellar, with a Coravin bias that allows us to present some sixty wines by the glass, from €18 to €700.

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