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37-39 rue Boissière
75016 Paris
France

Phone : 01 41 40 99 80

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La Chèvre d'Or

06360 ÈZE
17/20
 Prestige Restaurant
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© James Pouliot
© James Pouliot
10 PHOTOS
Chef Tom Meyer
Cooking Cuisine d'auteur | French | Gastronomic
Services Pets allowed | Private parking lot | Valet parking
Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)
160 € to 340 €
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Gault&Millau's review
17/20
Prestige Restaurant Brilliant and annoying... But so brilliant! Today's meal at the Chèvre d'Or is built by a Space X rocket named Tom Meyer, who arrived in late spring to succeed Arnaud Faye, who left for the Bristol. Let's skip the annoyance: this is the Chèvre d'Or, a little piece of the mythical Riviera, the famous sculpted goat dominating the coast, the sparkling view over Cap Ferrat and beyond to the Baie des Anges, the waves sparkling beneath the sheer drop... A team of young people on hand to welcome guests, a touch show-off, well-dressed, smiling, reciting by heart all the well-learned lessons, available for foreign customers who want to enjoy the show. And there are some! Isn't the chef here? Is he? Never mind... Isn't the pastry chef here? Is he? We'll do without him. Isn't the head sommelier here? We'll take some wine anyway, there's plenty of prestige in the cellar. The faux beurre, mixed with olive oil, is placed on the table with the various breads. Let's get started! The first two dishes leave a vinegary acidity on the palate, the fifth an excess of salt (the pissalat on the yellowtail, a great dish nonetheless). Not a good start, you might think. But it does! Even if the chef is at the beach, his team, some of whom come directly from his previous Granite, know how to read and translate Tom Meyer into the text. What's up? So, in spite of all that, we find ourselves clapping our hands a little, because these dishes are in the upper register, of exceptional gratin, of a French excellence already fully identified: the muge in carpaccio, sliced shrimp vinaigrette with basil oil and dried grapefruit, it's colorful, graphic, Castelbajac and it's excellent, even addictive. We skip the tomato, a pleasant transition, for the kiwi cucumber sorrel beef jerky on which a lightly grilled slice of Japanese wagyu lies, an "extra" dish that clatters divinely, announcing the sardine, finished with a blowtorch ("to recall a Mediterranean barbecue") with a garum ("an old-fashioned sauce") and a tiger sauce ("it's his camouflage sauce"), crunchy matcha green beans and pistachio. We'll forget the sweetbreads, a little distorted by a slightly firm shell and a rubbery pastrami bao that doesn't quite fit, to taste Florent Margaillan's excellent desserts, based on well-polished figs and, above all, Mexican vanilla, a sober, delicate and chic plate. Four toques of course, in spite of everything and thanks to everything else, because this talent can't be passed up. The future belongs to him, and it may well be a bright one. An extensive cellar, with a Coravin bias that allows us to present some sixty wines by the glass, from €18 to €700.
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Address Rue du Barri
06360 Èze
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Thursday Lunch Dinner
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People
Tom Meyer
Tom Meyer Chef
Tom Meyer Tom Meyer Chef
Florent Margaillan
Florent Margaillan Pastry Chef
Florent Margaillan Florent Margaillan Pastry Chef
Yann Vayé
Yann Vayé Chef de service
Yann Vayé Yann Vayé Chef de service
Mathieu Selier
Mathieu Selier Head sommelier
Mathieu Selier Mathieu Selier Head sommelier
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Discover this restaurant's hotel

Château de La Chèvre d’Or
Exceptional Hotel
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Address 06360 ÈZE
Services Charm, Meeting rooms, On-site catering, Pets allowed, Restaurant selected by G&M, Spa
Budget 450 €
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Exceptional Hotel
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Address 06360 ÈZE
Services Charm, Meeting rooms, On-site catering, Pets allowed, Restaurant selected by G&M, Spa
Budget 450 €
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