Patrick Henriroux hasn’t changed since he was inducted into the Gault&Millau Academy at our annual gala last November—where he is now firmly established and unassailable as the holder of five gold toques. No, of course, this fundamentally kind and compassionate chef hasn’t turned his restaurant upside down. But he instills such energy and such a spirit of solidarity among his teams that the legendary Pyramide shines brighter than ever. Once again this year, what a wonderful experience, what a feast for the senses, what a delight at the table with the dedicated Michael Bouvier as maître d’, with service marked by total dedication, and a sommelier team that attentively guides guests with precision through one of France’s finest wine cellars—made accessible and alluring by forty years of a collector’s passion! The menu is constantly evolving, making your mouth water from top to bottom and left to right. “Oohs!” and “Aahs!”, “Wow!” and “More, please!” in response to the BBQ tuna with wasabi and creamed turnip greens and horseradish gel, the sleeper crab and king crab served with celery caviar and sake, Arctic char and Rozay snails with a fish-roe butter emulsion, or the utterly seductive Pithiviers of milk-fed veal and sweetbreads, wild mushrooms, and golden turnips, daikon with culatello and tarragon jus. There’s no need to wonder whether La Pyramide fits seamlessly into its surroundings: Patrick Henriroux is far too devoted to the well-being of everyone around him to forget his producers, who are part of a wonderful extended family—winemakers included. The desserts by Anthony Fresnay and Taïra Kawamura round out the meal with freshness and elegance, featuring the frosted lemon with Chartreuse snow, a reimagining of the famous “chocolate piano,” and the delicious crispy brioche with chicory cream and Havana leaf ice cream.