With Pierre Meneau away at the Table du Connétable in Chantilly, Senlis-born Paul Thévenin, chef de partie trained by Arnaud Faye, is taking over at this golf-fronted hotel complex, making the most of local resources, including the vegetable garden and beehives. Interesting land-sea starter with grilled octopus and confit of pig breast, pea jelly and sponge cake, good supreme of Licques poultry, foie gras royale and Méry-sur-Oise mushrooms and, to finish, a variation on rhubarb and crab with fresh goat's cheese. The 2 toques are retained, with the impression of some room for improvement. Friendly service and classic cellar.