Laurent Blanchard’s secret is quite simple and inspiring: the chef is right there! He cooks every day, manages his young staff, and makes the rounds of the dining room and terrace at the end of the service. Yes, we must also mention the prime central location on the Allees, the charm of this pedestrian-friendly terrace, the selection on the menu supplemented by the daily specials written on the chalkboard, and the technical mastery of the man who for years was the chef at Le Saint-Pierre in La Bouille. The restaurant’s reputation is easily confirmed with a delicious calf’s head as a starter—beautifully presented—followed by a hearty parmentier with pulled duck. The wine list is classic, with a small selection available by the glass.