Disciples

Rating: 13
Author: Gault&Millau

75016 PARIS

13/20
Chef's Restaurant

BOOK

Chef: Jean-Pierre Vigato
Cooking: French

Gault&Millau's review 2027

Jean-Pierre Vigato and his disciple Romain Dubuisson serve up a well-mannered bourgeois cuisine, perfect for the neighborhood crowd: politicians, lawyers, decision-makers... On this particular lunchtime, three former prime ministers scattered around the dining room entertain their guests. Proof that the address is reassuring. The menu is short, coherent and solid, but we'd like it to be a little more striking. The œuf parfait, crème de fenouil et poutargue (perfect egg, fennel cream and bottarga) lacks nerve: a starter that glides along without really making an impression on the palate. The same is true of the juices, which are too wise and not concentrated enough to make the meat vibrate. In contrast, the "Disciple" pâté croûte is a real success: generous, well-balanced, spiced up by a pistachio-shallot vinaigrette that finally gives it some impetus. The poultry supreme is a good product, but the timid purée and half-hearted jus leave the whole a little behind. Fortunately, the market garden vegetables provide the necessary boost. It's clearly the large sharing dishes that bring out the best in the duo: lamb shoulder confit and lacquered, hare à la royale, veal chop... As soon as you open the format, the cuisine breathes better and finds a real zest. It's definitely what you want here. As for the desserts, they hit the nail on the head: a delicate guanaja soufflé, a lightly sweetened whipped cream, and an irresistible vanilla-hazelnut mille-feuille despite the dough pieces being a little thick to claim the official title. The vanilla cream, on the other hand, is superb. The wine list is a serious affair: fine glasses at reasonable prices (between €10 and €13) and a selection of large-format wines that will make wine-lovers' eyes shine... and those who return to the office sleepy. A pleasant, precise table that ticks a lot of boxes. You can feel the mastery, the desire to do well. All that's missing is a little more audacity for the pleasure to be fully realized.