There's always a pleasure in rediscovering the real taste of things, stripped of the artifices of modern cooking. Robin Pasquier's approach is simple, even obvious, but when accompanied by real expertise in the kitchen, it produces moments of pure pleasure. His little bistro on rue Colbert, which promises nothing other than what it promises, is deliciously accurate, where intention and execution are perfectly aligned, producing plates that are frank and successful. Duck hearts sautéed hot and cold on a small lentil salad with vinaigrette and herbs for decoration and freshness, grilled and moist at the same time, a superb lamb shoulder braised with mild spices and seasonal vegetables, like a Mediterranean pot-au-feu, with real tenderness and a delicate broth. The crunchy chocolate-praline and toasted buckwheat cream entremets are equally straightforward, full of textures, balance and sincere pleasure. Thoughtful wine list, with numerous organic and natural references: Noëlla Morantin, domaine Breton, Hervé Villemade, domaine de la Touraize, ferme des 7 lunes, Hervé Souhaut, Mikaël Bouges... Smiling, friendly service.