Cantine et canons

Rating: 12.5
Author: Gault&Millau

29160 MORGAT

12.5/20
Gourmet Restaurant

Cooking: French
Services: Children's Menu
Style: Casual | Wine Bar | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2026

Natives of Loir-et-Cher, Mathilde Traullé and Pierre-Emmanuel Courtois, after a brief stint in Auvergne, have set their sights far to the west. They have renovated an old crêperie on the first floor of a pretty town house. The room isn't very big - around twenty covers - but it's charming: luminosity, light grey floors, exposed stone or simply white walls, a small fireplace with a very nice insert and kitchens protected by a counter where you can sit down. The originality of the place lies in the numerous shelves on which a small part of the wine list is displayed. It has to be said that it's the former wine merchant next door who sells his stock in this way. He also provides friendly service and excellent advice (côtes-de-duras from domaine Mouthes - Le Bihan, côte roannaise from domaine des Pothiers, coteaux du Salagou from domaine Mas Fabregous, Sologne wines from Claude et Etienne Courtois...). Classic in style, the cuisine oscillates between land - "quail confit, quinoa salad, coriander and soy"; "duck confit, darphin apples and pan-fried foie gras"... - and sea. For example, these beautiful sardine fillets are perfectly fresh, well boned and barely marinated to preserve their taste. They are mischievously served with delicious roasted Brussels sprouts deglazed with soy. Some of the leaves are deliberately almost roasted, which is very pleasant. The thick, crispy-skinned pollack steak is remarkably well cooked. Cauliflower in all its guises accompanies it with gusto: in an extremely light and sapid mousseline, in roasted heads and finally grated to obviously give the whole a bit of crunch. Ultimately, we're delighted with a gourmet composition that combines apples, caramel and hazelnuts.