Bô-tannique

Rating: 13.5
Author: Gault&Millau

33000 BORDEAUX

13.5/20
Chef's Restaurant

BOOK

5 PHOTOS

Chef: Florent Presse
Cooking: French | Healthy cooking | Modern | Organic
Style: Romantic

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

25 € to 45 €

Gault&Millau's review 2026

When the evenings get lively, Place Saint-Projet becomes the bustling scene for Bordeaux reunions. At the corner of this urban scene, Bo-tannique comes into its own. This address, popular with curious, epicurean youngsters, knows how to bring all tribes together around a spontaneous, lively à la carte menu that changes according to mood. And for those who prefer to let themselves be guided, three well-constructed menus, from €45 to €80, offer an attractive panorama of home cooking. The setting is contemporary, but without clichés. The dining room exudes plant life and natural materials, with a hint of travel in the background. The cuisine is itinerant, nourished by memories, but sometimes a little scattered: some dishes still lack unity. We'd like to feel a firmer hand, a "captain of the plate" who assumes the course. The perfect egg and its creamy onion sauce, for example, are slightly dominated by an overly voluble parmesan emulsion. The same goes for the Saint-Pierre, delicate but a little overshadowed by the shallot confit potatoes, generous but overly present. On the other hand, the shrimp in fried raviole, accompanied by a crunchy fennel salad, was a great success: the right balance, the joy of it all, and the unanimous approval of the table. The same goes for the well-crafted beef onglet with sorrel pesto and fresh herbs: simple but effective. As for the desserts, they're a real feast for the eyes. The blackberry and candied rhubarb creation is a real treat, even if we could do without the ever-present espuma. On the other hand, the potato tuile with mascarpone cream, praline and hazelnut ice cream is a stroke of sweet-and-savory genius that alone is worth the detour. The wine list is accessible and eclectic, allowing you to explore some fine estates at all price points. Special mention must go to the many well-chosen wines by the glass - provided, however, that serving temperatures are better controlled. In the end, Bo-tannique leaves a joyously muddled impression, like a memory trunk whose contents are overflowing. But the sincerity is there, the ideas are flowing, and the talent of the trio just needs to find its rhythm. It's believable.